Sibling Rivalry?

If you search the internet for "littermate syndrome," you'll find many articles and posts explaining how keeping two littermates (or getting two puppies at the same time) can backfire in big ways.  While this certainly is not a 100% rule, it is a very serious situation and should be thought about carefully before deciding to raise two puppies at the same time.  

I have had sibling puppies in my home at the same time as fosters.  I've always made it a priority every day to give them a lot of separate time - separate sleeping areas, crates, playtimes, training times, socialization times, etc.  This means a lot of work on my part.  Having one puppy is a lot of extra work for awhile, but adding that times two = a LOT of work.  

It's important, though, that each puppy learn to be confident and independent on its own, not always relying on its sibling to see how to respond in different situations.  It's also important to the welfare of each dog that it grows up learning how to function without the other.  Things happen - dogs pass away, or get sick and need to stay at the vet, or need to be walked separately, or ... ??

Dogs that don't learn to function well on their own will be extremely stressed when they are separated from that security blanket of the other dog.  If you've read my blog for long, you know that stress can have very adverse effects on the physical, emotional, mental and behavioral well-being of that dog.  

I've also refused to foster two dogs together from the same intake group.  Most of the dogs I fostered had concerning behavior histories, and they came to me for rehab.  It's often very difficult to create changes in concerning behavior if the dog is still overly dependent on their sibling or housemate.  Changes can happen more quickly and permanently if the dogs can be separated.  But this is not always possible. 

Working in a shelter situation, I see this very sad side of littermate syndrome every day.  Two (or sometimes more) dogs are dropped off at the shelter with the comments, "oh, they need to be adopted together."  This is one of the saddest things for a shelter to hear.  You see, it's a job in itself to get single animals all adopted into great homes - when it is stipulated that they must be adopted together, those animals are more likely to sit in shelters for extended periods of time (or not make it out at all).

There are situations where bonded dogs cannot safely be separated.  They will injure themselves trying to escape to join the other dog.  They won't eat.  They may even begin showing self-injurious behaviors such as chewing on themselves until sores appear.  There are many situations where one dog has not learned to function on its own and its buddy passes away ... only for the other dog to pass away shortly afterwards, most likely from grief and stress.

As a professional trainer, I've had many clients contact me with issues developing between their dogs.  These may be siblings adopted together, or often, they are dogs from different litters, but raised together from a young age.  In many of these cases, the concerning behaviors have been going on for awhile and are being seen cropping up in other situations as well. 

I was reminded in a big way recently about the dangers of littermate syndrome.  I broke up two very serious fights among littermates this past week.  What really stood out to me, though, is the age of these puppies.  The puppies are just shy of four months old!  All are happy, outgoing, sociable puppies, that apparently had lived together thus far with no issues.  This is perhaps the most serious display between littermates that I've seen at such a young age.  

These fights were extremely serious.  Nothing broke the aggressor's (for lack of a better description - the puppy on top doing the biting and shaking) focus.  I didn't even get a glance away for a second in order to break up the fight - not noise, not movement, not bodily contact, not even trying to move a large object between them.  These puppies meant business. 

I had to scoop one up inside a rigid plastic whelping box and hold him inside it against the wall in order for the other one to slink away to safety.  And I held him there in the box for many moments until he calmed down enough for me to touch him and lead him away.  He was not going to give up the fight. 

What started the fight?  I really don't know.  I was there with them in the room, and it just exploded and escalated very quickly.  There was blood.  There was a puppy screaming and pinned down not able to get up.  And there was the one on top, completely engrossed on biting the other one in a frenzy.

It's not safe for these four month old puppies to be with each other anymore, which is very sad for all concerned.  However, they continue to be happy, outgoing puppies, and have not shown that they have issues with other, older, unrelated dogs or with people. 

Please research littermate syndrome - don't just read one site, read several.  Get the real gist of the broadness of the situation and symptoms, as well as what can be done to provide each puppy with lots of individual training and socialization to build confidence and independence.  This may be something that you are capable of doing and you're willing to take a chance with two puppies, or it may not be.  

But please research first.  Educate yourself and know what you're getting into.  It could go very smoothly for you, or it may not.  If it goes badly, it's heartbreaking to have to rehome one of your dogs because they no longer get along, and it's also heartbreaking to live in a home with dogs that need to be kept separate all the time so they don't hurt each other. 

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

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Ways to Appreciate More Treats!

Vinny says:

February 23rd - It's International Dog Biscuit Appreciation Day!  What a GREAT day!  I really appreciate dog biscuits every day, but having a special day means that my person will have a wonderful reminder to let me have even more of them!

So I started to think about more ways that I can get (and appreciate) more dog biscuits!

Do more tricks!

What about puppy dog eyes and an adorable expression?

Follow my nose!

Play with puzzle toys!

Go shopping!

Smooch my favorite biscuit baker!

What are some of your favorite ways to get more treats and biscuits?

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Long Distance Traveling with Vinny

What are some considerations when taking a long-distance and/or extended stay trip with your dog?  I'm getting ready to take just such a car trip with Vinny (blind/deaf).  He's an experienced traveler, and there are certain things I take into consideration to keep him happy and content when he's away from home for so long.

Vinny is a fabulous traveler, enjoys riding in the car, and is excited to explore new places.  But even so, being away from home can be stressful.  It's important that I have a plan for keeping Vinny as relaxed and happy as possible. 

Are We There Yet?  

We will need to spend most of two days in the car to get to our destination.  Vinny travels in a crate which is strapped down securely so it won't slide or bump around.  I choose to have him ride in a crate for safety reasons.  A crate will help to keep him safe from being tossed around in the car should I have to stop suddenly, but it will also keep him safe from the luggage and other items in the car hitting him if they shift suddenly.  

In his crate, he has a familiar bed, some favorite toys, and some bones to chew to help him pass the time.  I keep food puzzle toys handy along with some special treats, so I can offer him one periodically to exercise his mind and give him something to focus on.  Vinny can't see me or hear me, nor can he hear the radio or my singing (which might be a good thing!).  It's important to me that he have things to occupy him.  I may even give him a new toy to explore. 

It's important on a long trip to provide lots of water and potty breaks, and a chance for Vinny to stretch his legs.  I have a long tracking leash where I can get to it easily.  Rest areas often have larger grass areas where I can let him wander and sniff or even run a little bit.  He also needs to have access often to fresh water.  When finding interesting places for us to stop along the way, we explored whether they were dog friendly.  This allows us to do some sightseeing while Vinny gets to come along with us.  

Checking In

Once at the hotel, there is an entirely new environment for Vinny to get used to.  I've found it is easier for me to check in and get my things into the room before bringing Vinny in.  This also allows me to check the room for ways I can make it more accommodating for Vinny since he can't see.  Can I create a clearer path for him by moving floor lamps, wires, chairs, etc?  

I always check under the beds - I have found stray medications which have rolled under beds and been missed by vacuums.  I sure don't want my dog eating that!  I close the toilet lid if possible and if not, I make sure I don't allow him free access to the bathroom.  I know they use toxic cleaners and I don't want to risk my dog deciding that this is the day to sample toilet water!  I always keep trash cans up on counters and out of Vinny's reach while in the hotel as well.  

Since I've already brought my things to the room (and Vinny's things), I can unpack his bowls, bed, toys and bone so he will notice familiar things of his when he comes into the room.  I do also travel with a small exercise pen that I can set up to help him acclimate if necessary.  He's a fairly seasoned traveler, so I don't really need this anymore.  In the beginning, though, it helped him get used to a smaller area first before setting him loose in the room and helped him not to be so confused with a new space.  Similarly, if your dog is used to using a halo harness, be sure to bring that along.  

I came across a new situation when traveling recently.  A low counter stuck out into the middle of the room with nothing underneath it.  The counter was much lower than most.  But this counter was just the proper height for Collies to knock their faces against - and that was NOT fun!  In this case, I used things to block off the space around and below the counter - luggage, chairs, and the exercise pen.  

Jumping on the Bed

Be prepared to spend some extra time with your dog while getting to the room.  Some dogs take their time to do their business in a new place.  It's wise to make sure you give your dog plenty of time to do everything they need to do before going into the hotel.  Your dog may experience new types of doors, new and various surfaces, new smells.  Take your time and let your dog explore a bit and smell on your way to the room.  

There will be steps and elevators.  Small dogs can feel safer being carried (if they are accustomed to that) in elevators and up and down unfamiliar sets of steps.  Larger dogs will need extra guidance from you and patience about exploring steps that may be different from theirs at home.  Elevators are a great alternative, but require some practice to do safely and fluidly. 

Always be sure when getting on or off an elevator to look first - be sure no one (or other dog) is getting on or off towards you.  If there is another dog in the elevator, I usually will wait to get on the next one.  It's important to block the elevator door with your foot and leg while you help your dog get on/off.  Please don't let your dog get on or off without blocking the door.  Elevator door sensors can't sense a leash and may close on your dog or on the leash with you on one side and your dog on the other.  That is NOT safe!  Also be sure you steer your dog to the back of the elevator away from the closing door so his feet and tail don't get pinched!  

When I get to a new hotel room, I allow Vinny to smell and move around.  I keep him on the leash and stay nearby so I can steer him if he's going to bump hard into something.  He will explore but appreciates having me nearby so he can check in with me while he's moving around the room.  He will find his toys and bed, and I show him where his water is.  After he's checked the room out a few times, I will take off the leash but I am still paying attention.  

He will bump into things as he explores.  If I notice him getting confused or frustrated, I will step in to help him and redirect him in a different direction.  He usually explores a few more times around the whole place off leash and then will come to investigate what I'm doing, find his toys, etc.  

Taking the time to consider what Vinny needs on our travels allows him to have fun exploring new places.  By taking some extra time when we first get to the hotel, I know he will then settle down and be comfortable in the new environment for the rest of our stay.   

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

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A Guide Dog for the Blind Dog?

From time to time, I’m asked how someone can go about adopting a dog to become a guide dog for their blind dog.  Or how someone can teach their existing dog to guide the blind dog.  I’ve even been asked what is the best equipment to use to tether the dogs together, so the sighted dog can lead the blind dog around.  Sometimes we even see this happening in the media, and it is presented as a wonderful thing.  

But is it really?

I think first we need to have realistic expectations.  

Should I get another dog to help my blind dog?

When deciding whether to get another dog to help your blind dog, it’s important to consider that each dog is an individual.  Some dogs enjoy dog companions and some don’t.  And even among those that do, each dog has an individual personality, activity level, etc, and will not react to each dog the same.  It’s important to make the right match for everyone concerned.  

Will the blind dog enjoy  having another dog friend?  If so, what temperament and activity level are suitable?  Not all adult or senior dogs enjoy puppies and young, bouncy, active dogs.  Getting a second dog that will bump into or climb on top of the blind dog while trying to play may result in a lovely game between two dogs, or it might result in the blind dog becoming stressed and grumpy.  

Can your household accommodate another dog?  Caring for an additional dog involves greater financial, physical and emotional resources.  Is the household ready to take on those added responsibilities?  

Take your time when deciding whether to add another dog to the family.  Take your blind dog to meet other friendly dogs of various sizes and temperaments while you decide if this will be a good decision for everyone.  If it is, then take the time to find just the right match.  Don't rush into this decision.  

Can my sighted dog lead my blind dog around?

Is it realistic to expect a dog to understand, on a conceptual level, another dog’s blindness?  In my many years of experience with blind and visually impaired dogs, I'd say no, it's not especially realistic.  We all want to see this magical thing happen where the sighted dog takes the blind dog under his care and never lets anything bad happen to it.  This is more of a romantic view of what actually happens. 

I have seen dogs do amazing things for each other, including sighted dogs appearing to lead blind dogs around.  But this is not the norm.  You need to understand going into this, that those idealistic visions are not necessarily realistic. If they happen for you, that's amazing and wonderful.  But please take the time to consider what is probably more realistic.

I don't believe that dogs understand blindness in the way we understand it.  Dogs don't think ahead and realize that their buddy can't see something in his path, so perhaps they better move that buddy out of the way.  But dogs can learn that their blind buddy does things a bit differently.  They learn this by experience, observation and trial and error.  

For instance, my sighted dogs have learned that the best way to engage my blind dogs is to touch them.  They may play chase games or distance games with my other sighted dogs, but those don't work as well with the blind dogs and so the game ends quickly.  They learn that in order to keep the games going with my blind dogs, they need to maintain physical contact.  

Dogs aren't born knowing these different ways of interacting.  They learn them.  Nor are dogs born knowing how to look out for another dog's safety.  When push comes to shove, the sighted dog will push through a narrow space, even knocking over and into the blind dog to get where they want to go.  This is realistic.  This is how life really looks in a household with both blind and sighted dogs. 

Can my dog have a service dog?

A sighted dog leading a blind dog is not considered a guide dog in the service dog or assistance dog realm.  Assistance dog (including guide dog) is a legal term used by the ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) to label a specially-trained dog assisting a HUMAN to mitigate a disability.  The assistance dog, when used in accordance to ADA guidelines, is permitted to accompany the HUMAN into public places in order to do its job (in this case guiding the person around obstacles and hazards).  It is the HUMAN with the right to take a specially-trained guide dog into public places. 

A dog does not have the legal right to utilize a guide dog of its own and go into public places where pet dogs are not already permitted.  Guide dogs are taught extensively the skills necessary to lead a blind person.  They are not born knowing how to allow a certain amount of space around their bodies to allow the person to clear an obstacle.  This is something that takes lots of specialized training and practice.  

Should I tether my blind dog to my sighted dog?

Tethering two dogs together, regardless of whether they can see or not, is rarely comfortable for the dogs.  I have not seen an example of tethering dogs together where both dogs are not showing signs of being uncomfortable. 

When dogs are tethered together, we are taking away two things that are very important to their well-being and comfort - personal space and choice.  Personal space is very important to dogs - just like it is to us.  They use space to communicate with each other, to feel safe, and to feel less pressured and stressed by situations.  In order to use space for these purposes, a dog needs to have the choice to move closer or farther away.  

Think about times when you are uncomfortably close to other people - conversations when someone is talking right up close to your face, a crowded elevator, a train or plane commute where you are sitting elbow to elbow with others.  Normally our choice in those situations is to create more space around us.  When we can't do that and our choice is taken away from us, we feel uncomfortable, stressed, maybe even anxious.  

Our dogs experience the same thing.  We take away their choice and their ability to use personal space to feel safe when we tether them to us or to each other.  It is not something to take lightly.  

When a blind dog is tied to a sighted dog with the intention of having it be led by the other dog, both dogs are likely to be stressed.  The sighted dog is being placed into a role and responsibility that is not natural for him.  As discussed above, a dog is not born knowing how to allow extra space around its body for another body not to bump into obstacles, trip over curbs, etc.  So the sighted dog only knows that there is another dog attached to it, following it, touching it, bumping into it or other obstacles.  He doesn't know why.  This is stressful.  What if the blind dog slows down, gets caught on something, or is bumping into things?  The sighted dog is feeling all of this through the tether and also not understanding that information.  Stress builds.  

The blind dog is certainly also stressed - being pulled by another dog into a space and situation he can't see.  It can't possibly feel safe to be pulled along everywhere.  He has no freedom to communicate that he wants to stop or go slower, or that he needs to stop and investigate something to know what it is.  I have seen some videos of blind dogs that are completely shut down and just follow wherever they are dragged, showing no interest in life, because they have no choice.  They must follow or be drug along.  Stress builds. 

Blind dogs can and do enjoy walks and exploring new places, please don't get me wrong.  But they enjoy this most when they can feel safe to explore and discover at their own pace, not because they are forced along.  Blind dogs do often learn to cue off of a sighted dog and follow along.  This learning is done by experience, the same way a sighted dog may learn to play differently with a blind dog.  The blind dog learns from experience that following the sighted dog leads to good and fun things!  This is fabulous and can be very helpful.  

Do you notice the difference?  When tethered, neither dog had a choice and it can be very stressful for both dogs.  Stress is not fun.  But when the dogs can learn from and with each other, each making choices and feeling safe, they can learn how to interact with each other and have fun at the same time!

Ways to encourage a beneficial relationship

There are ways that you can encourage your sighted dog and your blind dog to engage in mutually beneficial relationships.  Help them learn new ways to play together.  Can they enjoy playing tug with a toy together?  Sit on the floor with them and hold a long tug toy in the middle to help temper the play so that both dogs are able to hold the toy and play.  Help less as they get the idea to engage with each other.

If the sighted dog tends to like to play chase games or games at a distance and the blind dog is getting lost, use your own body to become a bridge between them.  Be in on the game.  As the sighted dog starts to dash off, encourage him to come back in close, while using your body to keep the blind dog engaged.  With practice you will probably see the sighted dog begin to realize that he has to stay a bit closer or touch the blind dog more often to keep the game going.  Then you can begin to back out of the game more and more. 

On walks, use two leashes to allow both dogs to walk at a comfortable pace for them, sniff, explore, etc.  A blind dog will often learn to listen for and follow the sound of a sighted dogs ID tags jingling, or you can add a small bell to the sighted dog's harness as well as to your wrist.  This will help the blind dog be able to keep track of each of you.  This may really help your blind dog learn to follow your sighted dog if this is important to you.  (Of course, be sure the sighted dog is not bothered by the sound of a bell jingling first!)

You will probably notice just in the course of day-to-day activities how your blind dog follows the sighted dog's lead. You may notice the blind dog following along slightly behind the sighted dog at mealtimes, potty times, etc, as he follows pathways around the house and yard.  But not all blind dogs will be followers.  Many will also be out in front leading the way!  

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

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Top 5 Things to Know about Housetraining a Blind Dog

Here are the Top Five things you need to know to successfully housetrain your blind (and blind/deaf) dog.

1. Schedule

Create a schedule for your dog.  Puppies will need to go out more frequently than adult dogs, but it's important to take the dog outside more often than you think is necessary at first.  Times that should definitely be on the schedule are: when the dog wakes up from a nap or first thing in the morning, after running around/playtime/excitement, after meals, before bedtime, before you leave and as soon as you get home if you are leaving the dog alone, anytime the dog leaves its management area (more about this in a bit), and after he drinks a lot of water.

Create your dog's schedule around these times and try to be consistent.  Your dog can learn to be on a consistent schedule.  With a puppy, take him out every 1/2 hour - 1 hour in addition to the above mentioned times.  With adult dogs, if you know the dog emptied itself when you were last outside, you may be able to stretch this time to every 2 hours.

Anytime you notice that the dog has stopped playing or interacting, or is sniffing around suspiciously, get him outside!  Quickly!  It can also be helpful to take your dog to the same spot in the yard each time in the beginning.  The smells of where he went before will remind him of what you want him to do while he's there.

You may need to pick up a smaller dog/puppy, and physically lead a larger dog to get it outside quickly.  With repetition, your dog will learn the path to get itself to the door and outside, but for now, the idea is to get it outside quickly and before an accident can happen!  

Once your dog has been going outside on a schedule, you will begin to notice the specific times that your dog will do his business.  Over time you will begin to see a pattern.  You can use this pattern to learn when your dog needs to go and you can adjust the schedule accordingly so you're not making so many trips outside.  If your dog is a puppy, you will notice this changes over time as he becomes better able to control himself, and he will be able to wait longer between outings.

2. Supervision

It's imperative that you are always supervising your dog during this process.  Giving your dog run of the house when it's not reliably toilet trained is asking for accidents to happen!  Keep the dog in the same room as you so you can watch it closely and can easily get to it if you need to get it outside quickly.  You can use gates, or close doors within the house to keep the dog with you.  If you can't see the dog, you can't prevent a mistake, and you can't teach appropriate behavior.

Many people like to just open the door and let their dog go out into the yard to do its business on its own.  This doesn't really work so well.  At least in the beginning, you will need to be there with your dog.  Help him navigate quickly to the door and outside, help him navigate to the potty area, and then stay with your dog to make sure he goes.  If you just open the door and let him out, you won't know whether he went or not.  If he hasn't gone, or he's not finished yet, when you let him back into the house, he really has no choice but to then do it in the house.

Don't wait for your dog to tell you he needs to go outside.  Some dogs will tell you, others won't.  But until your dog understands to go outside every time, he probably won't.  It's your job to watch closely and use the schedule to prevent any mistakes.  And it's your job to help him get himself quickly and safely outside each time until he knows how to do the route himself.  It may take some time for your dog to learn how to get to the correct door from different areas of the house on his own.

3. Management

Management means that we set up the environment to help our dog be correct and to prevent mistakes.  Dogs learn by practicing - just like we do.  If a dog practices doing its business in the house by being allowed to have accidents, that is what he's going to get used to doing.  He's going to get better and better at going in the house - hmmm.  That's not what we want, is it?  Practice makes better, right?

Instead, if we set up the environment so we prevent him from making and practicing mistakes, and we set up things so that he is encouraged to always do his business outside, he will be practicing going where we want him to.  The less accidents he has in the house and the more times he goes outside, the better!  And, the faster he will learn!

Management can also mean setting up a small area that the dog is unlikely to do his business in, where he can be when we can't supervise him.  This is the management area. If we are going out to run an errand, if we have guests over to watch the game and we know we will be distracted, while we are napping, etc, we then have a small safe place to leave our dog where he can't be wandering the house to do his business.

However, if we leave our dog in this area for too long and he needs to go, he will learn to go in this smaller area.  So it's important, even with management, to supervise as often as we can and to keep to the consistent schedule.

4. Prevention

Remember, remember!  Prevent those indoor accidents at all costs!  Supervise your dog whenever he is with you in the house.  Catch him early before he actually has an accident and get him outside quickly.  With small dogs and puppies, pick them up to get them outside the quickest!  With larger dogs, lead them out as quickly as possible.

If the dog does have an accident, it wasn't his fault.  He didn't do it to spite you.  He did it because he had to go and doesn't yet understand how to hold it to get outside.  Take your dog outside in case he needs to finish - be sure to reinforce if he does go outside!  Then put your dog in the management area while you clean up the mistake.  Use enzyme-based pet safe cleaners to help get rid of any residual odors.  And then supervise more carefully next time.

If by chance your dog continues to have many accidents or starts having accidents after you believe it is fully trained, please take your dog to see its veterinarian.  It's important to rule out conditions such as infections or parasites that may be contributing to your dog not being able to control itself.

5. Reinforce

Dogs learn to repeat behaviors that are reinforced (rewarded) with something they like.  This is why it's important to stay with your dog outside in the yard while he does his business.  If you are there with him, you can reinforce him each and every time he does his business outside - which is what you want.

With a blind dog, talk soothingly while he is busy.  Soft praise is important to let him know that you approve of him going outside.  Some blind dogs may also be anxious or hesitant if they think you've left them alone, so your voice and presence will help him to feel better and more likely to want to do his business outside.  If you were to put him out into the yard alone, he might just sit by the door afraid or confused, only to go on the floor once you let him inside.

With a blind/deaf dog, be sure you are touching him.  Gently pet your dog as he is doing his business, or immediately afterwards.  It can also be helpful to keep him on a leash to make sure you are close enough to touch him as he is going.  If you need to run across the yard to get to him in time, you may miss a crucial moment to reinforce the behavior that you want to encourage.

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

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Acclimating Resident Animals to a Blind Deaf Dog

Whether you are bringing a new dog into your home that is visually/hearing impaired, or one of your current dogs is losing sight/hearing, there will be an adjustment period for each family member.  When there are other animals in the home, they will need to be helped with this transition.  Dog-dog interactions often give people the most concern.  Cats will normally find and retreat to a safer place to rest out of the dog's way.  Smaller animals must of course be kept safe from dogs that might consider them prey.  Today's post will be specifically about dog-dog interactions.  

Do animals know when another is blind/deaf?

I'm often asked if animals know that another animal is blind or deaf.  I don't believe other animals have a sense of blind/deaf as we think about it.  I do believe that animals are very adaptable and can  learn to interact and communicate with a blind/deaf dog in adapted ways. 

For instance, my dogs will adapt their play style to my blind dogs so there is more touching involved with the play.  The dogs that can see will approach and touch the blind dogs more often during play in order to keep the game going.  While those same dogs might prefer to play chase and keep away games with my other seeing dogs. 

My herding dog that enjoys having all of the dogs going in the same direction, realizes that my blind/deaf dog isn't following the pack of dogs into the house, so he runs back out into the yard to touch that dog and let it know that everyone else is coming to the house.  Does he realize that the blind/deaf dog cannot see or hear?  Only he knows the answer to that for sure, but I don't think those things really much matter to a dog.  

I do know that he realizes that he likes all the dogs to come in together and that one isn't coming, so he learned that going out to touch that dog will bring awareness to what is going on and the dog will then come to the house.

These are the wonderful stories that we as humans like to focus on - oh look at him helping his blind/deaf brother.  Isn't it wonderful and heart-warming how he looks out for him?

I do believe our dogs notice that another dog is not responding in the same way as they might expect, and so then they adapt their communication to be more suitable to the blind/deaf dog.  But this takes time.  Just like it would take us time and practice to learn a new way of communicating, the same is true with our dogs and other animals in the home.  They will need time to adjust as well. 

Dogs live by dog rules! 

There is another side of reality when living with blind and/or deaf dogs.  A deaf dog may get startled awake one too many times by the other dogs playing nearby and can jump up in a bad mood, perhaps even biting at the dogs that woke him up so suddenly and rudely.  To a dog, being bumped into suddenly is rude.  He is not being a bad dog.  He is acting and communicating normally with those that ran into him and woke him up. 

resting in an open crate

Animals have their own "rules" about what is appropriate and polite behavior.  Being awakened by another dog jumping on your head or stepping on your tail - not cool or polite.  And this may not just be the blind/deaf dog being startled suddenly.  A seeing/hearing dog may get tired of being stepped on or having its space disturbed by a blind dog as well.   

You may notice over time that your dogs learn to find new resting places where they are less likely to be in high traffic areas.  My dogs enjoy napping in crates that are left with doors open.  This allows them a place to rest nearby to the rest of the family activity, but they are safely contained in a spot where they are unlikely to be bumped or stepped on unexpectedly.  

The crate allows them that safety space around them that they crave to feel safe while they nap.  The open doors allow them to choose when they want to go in or come out.  

Blind dogs and space

Space is very important to dogs.  They use space to communicate with each other and to feel safe.   A blind dog can't judge distance very well without getting closer than many dogs are comfortable with.  Each dog has their own personal space bubble - some may be larger than others.  If you have multiple dogs, you probably have observed this. 

Some dogs like to sleep cuddled up next to each other, while others prefer to have space around them.  Others may like to sleep in an enclosed area such as under a table or in a corner. 

Unless dogs have an understanding of living with blind dogs already, they can have a real problem with a blind dog getting into their space, stepping on them, coming close while they are chewing a bone, etc.  They will think this is very rude behavior, and while they may appear to be tolerant the first few times it happens, if it continues to happen and the blind dog is not responding to their warnings to be careful and give more space ... well, that's when things start to escalate.  While it's upsetting to us, again, this is normal dog communication. 

The blind dog may be trying to get close to the other dogs to find a sense of security, or to investigate the bone they're smelling, without realizing that the other dog is giving him a hard stare to stay away, or is posturing its body differently, or even if they are growling or lifting a lip.  If we don't notice these signs and intervene, we risk our dogs getting stressed and injured.

Management is key! 

It's important to allow all dogs their own space.  Be watchful always and don't leave dogs unattended together for quite awhile until you can be certain everyone will be comfortable and safe.  This may mean some extra management on your part - using gates, ex pens, crates, different rooms or levels within the room (one dog on the couch if another can't reach the couch, etc), keeping dogs leashed when necessary, etc.

There is always management and intervention going on in my house, as I have multiple dogs, each with differing needs and personalities. 

If my younger bigger dogs are wrestling and running around while playing, I will help my senior dog move away from the activity and I will look out for him so he doesn't get stomped on or bumped into.  He can't hear very well anymore and he has arthritis.  I think some of his vision is fading as well.  He could get seriously hurt by being jumped on by a much bigger, younger dog - so I look out for him. 

Because he has been startled awake by my other dogs a few times, he can be grouchy when he is woken up suddenly by them and he will be quick to tell them off.  So I wake him up when we need to move past him or when the other dogs want to jump off the bed but he's resting on the floor nearby.  I wake him first in a calm and appropriate way, and then the other dogs can come through once he's moved out of their path.

My blind/deaf dog is large and young and boisterous.  It's up to me to intervene when he gets to be too much for the older, smaller dogs.  He has learned to be respectful of them but every now and then, his youthfulness shines through and he pesters them a bit.  If I don't intervene, I know he will be wearing a battle scar on his snout.

Creating a peaceful household

Giving each dog their own space in the beginning will help everyone adapt and feel safe.  Allowing short times together when you are actively supervising will set everyone up for success.  And if you have more than two dogs, allowing them together in alternating pairs first can be helpful.  Allow dog 1 to meet dog 2, then 1 to meet dog 3, then 1 to meet 4, then perhaps 1 -2- and 3, etc.  This allows the dogs to begin to create their own relationships without being bombarded by all the dogs at once.

This is a great idea for new fosters coming into the home, a newly adopted dog, and even for resident dogs with newly appearing special needs - such as losing sight/hearing, after surgery or injury, etc.

Be sure to safely separate dogs as necessary when you can't be home or when you can't supervise closely at first.  A disagreement can very quickly get out of hand and a dog(s) can get hurt!  There are many options for keeping animals separated when you can't supervise - gates, different rooms, crates, wire exercise pens (one of my favorites because they are portable and very versatile), etc.  

Leaving dogs to argue it out and settle things for themselves often creates more tension between them that quickly escalates and causes more concerning behaviors.  It's rarely sufficient to allow them to work it out themselves.  

Dogs, like people, learn very quickly which dogs they feel safe with, and which others cause them stress.  Think about people you are stressed by in your life - at work, school, etc.  You begin to have an automatic emotional response to them when you see them, or even when you hear their voice, right?  Dogs are the same.  

So if you allow your dogs to be stressed by each other and take matters into their own hands, often the stress continues to escalate until there are conditioned bad feelings.  This will make it very difficult to find and maintain peace in the future.  

Instead, set everyone up for success and feeling safe and stress free.  This will help you create and keep that peace going forward into the future. 

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, and online classes and resources there to assist you!  

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Adding Scents to Help a Blind Dog?

When looking for advice about living with a blind dog, many sources recommend putting artificial scents in different rooms and on different surfaces for the dog to follow and recognize.

In theory, this sounds wonderfully helpful, but I've actually found that it can be very confusing for the dogs, as well as inconvenient for the human to continually reapply the scents to keep them fresh.

It is common knowledge that a dog's nose is one of its super powers!

It's been described that while we may walk into the kitchen and smell spaghetti sauce cooking, our dog can smell each of the ingredients used to make the sauce individually!

In observing my own blind dogs, they can easily tell the difference in the natural scents around them.  

The leash I use for every day walks smells different than the longer leash I use for letting them run in the fields, and smells different from the leash used for therapy visits.  The nail clippers smell different than the brush or the undercoat rake, even though they are all stored together in the grooming box.  How do I know they smell differently?  I know from my dog's reaction to each of those items - the reaction is different to each by smell alone.

My dogs easily know the difference between the rooms of the house, and even in different areas of each room.  I don't ever add any artificial scents to help them.  Each surface and object in my home has its own scent - a door smells different than a window.  A couch smells different than a rocking chair.  My dog can tell the difference between the smells of his toys and has his favorites, even among ones that are the same texture and shape!  

Has your dog ever had one favorite tennis ball among several?  Perhaps you've experienced this very thing in your home whether your dog can see or not!  Or what about the dog that chooses its very favorite stick and can pick it out of a pile of other sticks anywhere?  It's the same idea!  Our dog's noses are amazing!  

When we add artificial scents within the home, they are normally scents that are strong enough for us to smell readily. This means they are very powerful smells to our dogs - remember that their sense of smell is so much more sensitive than ours!

If I use a scented cleaner in my house, my dogs often sneeze or even go the other way.  My blind dogs don't like to walk on floors that have been cleaned with scented cleaners - even if it's a floor they walk on regularly.   The smell is just too strong for them. 

I think this is why people think that adding scents is helpful.  They add strong smelling scents to objects and obstacles in their home and the dog avoids them, so they think the dog is learning that the lemon scent means a doorway is there, and the pine scent means a piece of furniture is there - but really all the dog wants to do is avoid the strong smell.

It's much nicer to the dog to help him learn from the natural scent of the obstacles in the home so he can learn to navigate on his own.  It's also healthier, as some of the scents used may be full of chemicals that we and our dogs are then inhaling. 

If you've had any experience with nosework or scent work with dogs, you will also know that scent travels!  Think of the spaghetti sauce - you can smell it when you walk into the house, even though the kitchen may be several rooms away!  Right?

When you add a scent to the doorway, it doesn't just stay right there on the wood of the doorway.  It moves and spreads and drifts around on the air currents in your home, moving even several rooms away.  Sometimes scent also will collect in corners or in enclosed spaces, such as under tables or chairs.  Talk about confusing to the dog! 

It's not necessary to add artificial scents to help your blind dog navigate through an environment.  I have lived with blind dogs for a long time, and I have helped many, many clients with blind dogs.  I see it time and time again - dogs are amazing!  They can figure it out without us adding scents to everything. 

Your dog already is learning (or has learned if he's lived in your home for awhile) to associate the natural smells of the various rooms, objects, and obstacles with finding his way around your home.  He recognizes the smell of your couch, your bathroom, his bed, his toys, the path to the doors.  

If your dog is newly blind or is blind living in a new environment, take the time to help lead him around and let him explore while keeping him safe.  Help him learn to navigate his way around common pathways such as to the door to go outside, to his bed, to his toy box and to your favorite cuddling spot on the couch.

He will learn quickly.  And as you watch your dog finding his way around, take a moment to be amazed by the power of his nose!  His super power!

For online articles and resources relating to blind and/or deaf dogs, go check out www.yourinnerdog.com

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Canine Wellness - the Big Picture

This is National Pet Wellness Month!  It's a time to bring awareness to how we can keep our pets feeling and functioning at their best!  

In my Foundations for Canine Wellness online class, I introduce the Your Inner Dog Wellness Wheel, and we look at the building blocks within the wheel that will create a solid foundation of wellness and well-being for your dog.

The Wellness Wheel shows what I feel are the key aspects of life for our dogs.  You can see the main categories in the picture below - physical, social, emotional, and mental/behavioral wellness.  

Each category has different aspects to consider.  All require that we learn to look at life through our dog's eyes to best learn about his needs.  His needs and his perspective (how he views and experiences the world) are different than ours in some ways, yet very similar in many others. 

Each part of the Wellness Wheel affects each of the other parts.  All the parts work together and influence each other to create a harmonious big picture of life for each dog.  What happens in one area will impact the other areas, so an imbalance in one area can show up as an imbalance in another as well.  

A balanced dog has all of its needs met and can therefore experience wellness and well-being in all areas of its life.  This is the ideal that we all strive for.  It's important to refer back to the Wellness Wheel regularly, as these aspects of our dog's life are always changing.  By knowing what to consider in each of the aspects, we can easily make adjustments that will help keep our dog's Wellness Wheel in balance!

For the month of October, to celebrate National Pet Wellness Month, the Foundations for Canine Wellness online class will be offered at a substantial discount so that you can learn about building a strong foundation of wellness for your dog!  I hope to see you in the classroom! 

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A Holistic Perspective to Canine Wellness and Training

As a holistic dog trainer and animal wellness coach, my work centers on the importance of finding a balance in our relationship with the animals in our care.  There are many aspects to consider, and each one affects the others.  Here is an excerpt from my online course, Foundations for Canine Wellness in celebration of National Pet Wellness Month!  

"What is wellness? Wellness is defined as “the state of being in good health, especially as an actively pursued goal.” (from Google) In this course, wellness is closely married with well-being, which is defined as “the state of being comfortable, healthy, or happy.” (also from Google)

As a holistic dog trainer, I look at all parts of the picture and how they fit together. Holistic is defined as “the comprehension of the parts of something as intimately interconnected and explicable only by reference to the whole.” (Google again)

This means that we recognize that all the parts come together to directly affect the whole. There are many parts, or aspects, of our dog's life that come together to affect his/her entire life - health, happiness, fitness, nutrition, exercise, sleep, enrichment, training, environment, and so on. Each of these parts comes together to create the whole of the dog's life.

When we look at these aspects holistically, we can begin to see that there are many parts that make up the whole of our dog – physical, emotional, mental, social, behavioral, and instinctual.

As we go through this and upcoming wellness courses, we will consider all aspects of the dog’s life. We will look at health, environment, stress, training, behavior, and more. Our dog’s well-being and wellness depend widely on the choices we make on his/her behalf. Our dog relies on us to make these choices for it in most circumstances.

From a holistic training perspective, behavior is affected by many variables that are not often taken into consideration. Many trainers assume that behavior is a stand-alone issue and that training alone will change behavior. But when the concerning behavior has a deeper cause, this can create frustration as training is not able to completely clear up those concerns.

In fact, many trainers resort to forcing dogs to change their behavior out of frustration, but these are only temporary fixes, then requiring more force at a later date to keep the behavior under control. Forceful training also leads to other concerning behaviors developing that weren't there to begin with, and can lead to a decline in a dog’s well-being and quality of life.

The holistic view of training and behavior is that there is a cause behind that behavior. When we can deal with the true cause of the behavior, usually the behavior changes on its own and it is a permanent change. This is because whatever was causing the behavior is no longer there.

Changing even one aspect of a dog’s life can have a lasting impact on all the other aspects, including behavior. This is because all aspects work together interchangeably to create the whole picture that is your dog! This is the holistic perspective!"

For the month of October, the Foundations for Canine Wellness online class is being offered at a significant discount.  The class is On-Demand, so may be started at any time.  

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Teaching Automatic Check Ins to a Deaf Dog

A very important key to getting and keeping your deaf dog's attention is to teach an Automatic Check-In.  This sounds just like what it means.  

We want to teach the dog to check in with us often and automatically throughout the day. Think of all the times when you want to get your deaf dog's attention but it's looking in another direction or in another room, or is across the yard from you.  These are those times when people want to know how to get their deaf dog's attention.  The times when the dog is not looking at us.

It's important that we have certain signals that ask our dog to pay attention to us in the moment, such as what we discussed yesterday.  These are signals that we can teach to our dogs.  Just the fact that we are teaching those signals will help our dogs to watch us closer, because the dog doesn't want to miss the signal and miss a chance to get or do something fun with us.  

But the dog still needs to be looking in our direction or be close enough that we can give the signal easily, right?  What about those times when it's not?  

What if we could create many opportunities throughout the day when the dog was magically looking at us and close enough to us to see our signals?  Wouldn't that make life so much easier?  

We can teach our dogs to keep an eye on us and to come see what we're doing on a regular basis throughout the day (this is called checking-in with us).  The idea is that the dog will do this on its own without us needing to give a signal (this is the automatic part).  Each time the dog looks at us or comes close to us to check in, we have an opportunity to communicate with a signal cue if we want to. This opens up so many more opportunities for us to be able to communicate clearly and easily with our deaf dog.

Dogs of any age can learn this, and I usually start as soon as a dog enters my home or comes for its first lesson.  Create a situation where the dog will remain near you and where there aren't a lot of distractions.  Believe it or not, the bathroom is a great place to begin!  It's a smaller room, and there aren't usually too many distractions going on.  (Although toilet paper can be a huge distraction to some dogs!)

It's important to remember that the idea of this exercise is not to try to get the dog's attention.  The idea is for the dog to give you its attention on its own.  This can be difficult because it involves patience on the part of the teacher.  

Every time your dog turns toward you, give it one of those wonderful treats!  And smile and act happy that your dog has noticed you.  It won't take long before your dog will be following you around the bathroom, not wanting to look away.  When this happens, reward and then end the lesson.

Try to be as aware as you can even during your regular day to day activities of your dog - there will be times that it looks at you or comes to see what you're doing.  Be ready to reward those times too!  You can have containers of treats in various parts of your house or in your pocket.  

But you can also reward with other rewards your dog will like - petting, smiling, belly rub, toss a toy, etc.  At this point, you will want to continue with your formal bathroom lessons, but also be aware to reward times when your dog checks-in on its own!  Your teaching will go much faster that way!

It will take some practice on your part too - you will need to teach yourself to be aware of your dog paying attention.  Often we get busy and our dog will check in with us, but we may not notice.  As your dog learns to check in, you will also learn to check in and be aware.

You should find that very quickly your dog won't need to be in the bathroom for lessons anymore.  Begin to practice in other places and situations, gradually increasing distractions.  When you increase distractions, you will want to use high value treats in the beginning.  

Keep your dog close to you in the beginning when you are adding distractions.  This may mean using a gate or a leash so your dog can't get to the distractions.  Remember, the idea is not for you to ask your dog to pay attention - the idea is for the dog to decide.  So be patient and be ready as soon as the dog turns toward you, to reward and celebrate!  

You will be able to begin to mix up the rewards you use, like we talked about yesterday.  The more you can show your dog that you like it checking in with you, the better the behavior will become. But you don't always have to use a treat.  

My dogs have been doing check-ins for years, but I will always acknowledge them for checking in to keep the behavior strong.  Sometimes all it takes is a smile and a nod to let them know I noticed, or a scratching behind the ear.  

The day that you want to give your dog a signal cue but it is looking the other way and then, in an instant, it looks back to see what you're doing, you can smile - and then give your dog that cue you wanted to give.  It's so convenient to have a deaf dog that learns to pay attention without you asking for it.  I know that if I just pause a moment, my dog will check in with me, so I can give it a signal.  

Teach the automatic check in - you will thank yourself (and your dog) for it soon! 

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