Sibling Rivalry?

If you search the internet for "littermate syndrome," you'll find many articles and posts explaining how keeping two littermates (or getting two puppies at the same time) can backfire in big ways.  While this certainly is not a 100% rule, it is a very serious situation and should be thought about carefully before deciding to raise two puppies at the same time.  

I have had sibling puppies in my home at the same time as fosters.  I've always made it a priority every day to give them a lot of separate time - separate sleeping areas, crates, playtimes, training times, socialization times, etc.  This means a lot of work on my part.  Having one puppy is a lot of extra work for awhile, but adding that times two = a LOT of work.  

It's important, though, that each puppy learn to be confident and independent on its own, not always relying on its sibling to see how to respond in different situations.  It's also important to the welfare of each dog that it grows up learning how to function without the other.  Things happen - dogs pass away, or get sick and need to stay at the vet, or need to be walked separately, or ... ??

Dogs that don't learn to function well on their own will be extremely stressed when they are separated from that security blanket of the other dog.  If you've read my blog for long, you know that stress can have very adverse effects on the physical, emotional, mental and behavioral well-being of that dog.  

I've also refused to foster two dogs together from the same intake group.  Most of the dogs I fostered had concerning behavior histories, and they came to me for rehab.  It's often very difficult to create changes in concerning behavior if the dog is still overly dependent on their sibling or housemate.  Changes can happen more quickly and permanently if the dogs can be separated.  But this is not always possible. 

Working in a shelter situation, I see this very sad side of littermate syndrome every day.  Two (or sometimes more) dogs are dropped off at the shelter with the comments, "oh, they need to be adopted together."  This is one of the saddest things for a shelter to hear.  You see, it's a job in itself to get single animals all adopted into great homes - when it is stipulated that they must be adopted together, those animals are more likely to sit in shelters for extended periods of time (or not make it out at all).

There are situations where bonded dogs cannot safely be separated.  They will injure themselves trying to escape to join the other dog.  They won't eat.  They may even begin showing self-injurious behaviors such as chewing on themselves until sores appear.  There are many situations where one dog has not learned to function on its own and its buddy passes away ... only for the other dog to pass away shortly afterwards, most likely from grief and stress.

As a professional trainer, I've had many clients contact me with issues developing between their dogs.  These may be siblings adopted together, or often, they are dogs from different litters, but raised together from a young age.  In many of these cases, the concerning behaviors have been going on for awhile and are being seen cropping up in other situations as well. 

I was reminded in a big way recently about the dangers of littermate syndrome.  I broke up two very serious fights among littermates this past week.  What really stood out to me, though, is the age of these puppies.  The puppies are just shy of four months old!  All are happy, outgoing, sociable puppies, that apparently had lived together thus far with no issues.  This is perhaps the most serious display between littermates that I've seen at such a young age.  

These fights were extremely serious.  Nothing broke the aggressor's (for lack of a better description - the puppy on top doing the biting and shaking) focus.  I didn't even get a glance away for a second in order to break up the fight - not noise, not movement, not bodily contact, not even trying to move a large object between them.  These puppies meant business. 

I had to scoop one up inside a rigid plastic whelping box and hold him inside it against the wall in order for the other one to slink away to safety.  And I held him there in the box for many moments until he calmed down enough for me to touch him and lead him away.  He was not going to give up the fight. 

What started the fight?  I really don't know.  I was there with them in the room, and it just exploded and escalated very quickly.  There was blood.  There was a puppy screaming and pinned down not able to get up.  And there was the one on top, completely engrossed on biting the other one in a frenzy.

It's not safe for these four month old puppies to be with each other anymore, which is very sad for all concerned.  However, they continue to be happy, outgoing puppies, and have not shown that they have issues with other, older, unrelated dogs or with people. 

Please research littermate syndrome - don't just read one site, read several.  Get the real gist of the broadness of the situation and symptoms, as well as what can be done to provide each puppy with lots of individual training and socialization to build confidence and independence.  This may be something that you are capable of doing and you're willing to take a chance with two puppies, or it may not be.  

But please research first.  Educate yourself and know what you're getting into.  It could go very smoothly for you, or it may not.  If it goes badly, it's heartbreaking to have to rehome one of your dogs because they no longer get along, and it's also heartbreaking to live in a home with dogs that need to be kept separate all the time so they don't hurt each other. 

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

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Acclimating Resident Animals to a Blind Deaf Dog

Whether you are bringing a new dog into your home that is visually/hearing impaired, or one of your current dogs is losing sight/hearing, there will be an adjustment period for each family member.  When there are other animals in the home, they will need to be helped with this transition.  Dog-dog interactions often give people the most concern.  Cats will normally find and retreat to a safer place to rest out of the dog's way.  Smaller animals must of course be kept safe from dogs that might consider them prey.  Today's post will be specifically about dog-dog interactions.  

Do animals know when another is blind/deaf?

I'm often asked if animals know that another animal is blind or deaf.  I don't believe other animals have a sense of blind/deaf as we think about it.  I do believe that animals are very adaptable and can  learn to interact and communicate with a blind/deaf dog in adapted ways. 

For instance, my dogs will adapt their play style to my blind dogs so there is more touching involved with the play.  The dogs that can see will approach and touch the blind dogs more often during play in order to keep the game going.  While those same dogs might prefer to play chase and keep away games with my other seeing dogs. 

My herding dog that enjoys having all of the dogs going in the same direction, realizes that my blind/deaf dog isn't following the pack of dogs into the house, so he runs back out into the yard to touch that dog and let it know that everyone else is coming to the house.  Does he realize that the blind/deaf dog cannot see or hear?  Only he knows the answer to that for sure, but I don't think those things really much matter to a dog.  

I do know that he realizes that he likes all the dogs to come in together and that one isn't coming, so he learned that going out to touch that dog will bring awareness to what is going on and the dog will then come to the house.

These are the wonderful stories that we as humans like to focus on - oh look at him helping his blind/deaf brother.  Isn't it wonderful and heart-warming how he looks out for him?

I do believe our dogs notice that another dog is not responding in the same way as they might expect, and so then they adapt their communication to be more suitable to the blind/deaf dog.  But this takes time.  Just like it would take us time and practice to learn a new way of communicating, the same is true with our dogs and other animals in the home.  They will need time to adjust as well. 

Dogs live by dog rules! 

There is another side of reality when living with blind and/or deaf dogs.  A deaf dog may get startled awake one too many times by the other dogs playing nearby and can jump up in a bad mood, perhaps even biting at the dogs that woke him up so suddenly and rudely.  To a dog, being bumped into suddenly is rude.  He is not being a bad dog.  He is acting and communicating normally with those that ran into him and woke him up. 

resting in an open crate

Animals have their own "rules" about what is appropriate and polite behavior.  Being awakened by another dog jumping on your head or stepping on your tail - not cool or polite.  And this may not just be the blind/deaf dog being startled suddenly.  A seeing/hearing dog may get tired of being stepped on or having its space disturbed by a blind dog as well.   

You may notice over time that your dogs learn to find new resting places where they are less likely to be in high traffic areas.  My dogs enjoy napping in crates that are left with doors open.  This allows them a place to rest nearby to the rest of the family activity, but they are safely contained in a spot where they are unlikely to be bumped or stepped on unexpectedly.  

The crate allows them that safety space around them that they crave to feel safe while they nap.  The open doors allow them to choose when they want to go in or come out.  

Blind dogs and space

Space is very important to dogs.  They use space to communicate with each other and to feel safe.   A blind dog can't judge distance very well without getting closer than many dogs are comfortable with.  Each dog has their own personal space bubble - some may be larger than others.  If you have multiple dogs, you probably have observed this. 

Some dogs like to sleep cuddled up next to each other, while others prefer to have space around them.  Others may like to sleep in an enclosed area such as under a table or in a corner. 

Unless dogs have an understanding of living with blind dogs already, they can have a real problem with a blind dog getting into their space, stepping on them, coming close while they are chewing a bone, etc.  They will think this is very rude behavior, and while they may appear to be tolerant the first few times it happens, if it continues to happen and the blind dog is not responding to their warnings to be careful and give more space ... well, that's when things start to escalate.  While it's upsetting to us, again, this is normal dog communication. 

The blind dog may be trying to get close to the other dogs to find a sense of security, or to investigate the bone they're smelling, without realizing that the other dog is giving him a hard stare to stay away, or is posturing its body differently, or even if they are growling or lifting a lip.  If we don't notice these signs and intervene, we risk our dogs getting stressed and injured.

Management is key! 

It's important to allow all dogs their own space.  Be watchful always and don't leave dogs unattended together for quite awhile until you can be certain everyone will be comfortable and safe.  This may mean some extra management on your part - using gates, ex pens, crates, different rooms or levels within the room (one dog on the couch if another can't reach the couch, etc), keeping dogs leashed when necessary, etc.

There is always management and intervention going on in my house, as I have multiple dogs, each with differing needs and personalities. 

If my younger bigger dogs are wrestling and running around while playing, I will help my senior dog move away from the activity and I will look out for him so he doesn't get stomped on or bumped into.  He can't hear very well anymore and he has arthritis.  I think some of his vision is fading as well.  He could get seriously hurt by being jumped on by a much bigger, younger dog - so I look out for him. 

Because he has been startled awake by my other dogs a few times, he can be grouchy when he is woken up suddenly by them and he will be quick to tell them off.  So I wake him up when we need to move past him or when the other dogs want to jump off the bed but he's resting on the floor nearby.  I wake him first in a calm and appropriate way, and then the other dogs can come through once he's moved out of their path.

My blind/deaf dog is large and young and boisterous.  It's up to me to intervene when he gets to be too much for the older, smaller dogs.  He has learned to be respectful of them but every now and then, his youthfulness shines through and he pesters them a bit.  If I don't intervene, I know he will be wearing a battle scar on his snout.

Creating a peaceful household

Giving each dog their own space in the beginning will help everyone adapt and feel safe.  Allowing short times together when you are actively supervising will set everyone up for success.  And if you have more than two dogs, allowing them together in alternating pairs first can be helpful.  Allow dog 1 to meet dog 2, then 1 to meet dog 3, then 1 to meet 4, then perhaps 1 -2- and 3, etc.  This allows the dogs to begin to create their own relationships without being bombarded by all the dogs at once.

This is a great idea for new fosters coming into the home, a newly adopted dog, and even for resident dogs with newly appearing special needs - such as losing sight/hearing, after surgery or injury, etc.

Be sure to safely separate dogs as necessary when you can't be home or when you can't supervise closely at first.  A disagreement can very quickly get out of hand and a dog(s) can get hurt!  There are many options for keeping animals separated when you can't supervise - gates, different rooms, crates, wire exercise pens (one of my favorites because they are portable and very versatile), etc.  

Leaving dogs to argue it out and settle things for themselves often creates more tension between them that quickly escalates and causes more concerning behaviors.  It's rarely sufficient to allow them to work it out themselves.  

Dogs, like people, learn very quickly which dogs they feel safe with, and which others cause them stress.  Think about people you are stressed by in your life - at work, school, etc.  You begin to have an automatic emotional response to them when you see them, or even when you hear their voice, right?  Dogs are the same.  

So if you allow your dogs to be stressed by each other and take matters into their own hands, often the stress continues to escalate until there are conditioned bad feelings.  This will make it very difficult to find and maintain peace in the future.  

Instead, set everyone up for success and feeling safe and stress free.  This will help you create and keep that peace going forward into the future. 

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, and online classes and resources there to assist you!  

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Canine Wellness - the Big Picture

This is National Pet Wellness Month!  It's a time to bring awareness to how we can keep our pets feeling and functioning at their best!  

In my Foundations for Canine Wellness online class, I introduce the Your Inner Dog Wellness Wheel, and we look at the building blocks within the wheel that will create a solid foundation of wellness and well-being for your dog.

The Wellness Wheel shows what I feel are the key aspects of life for our dogs.  You can see the main categories in the picture below - physical, social, emotional, and mental/behavioral wellness.  

Each category has different aspects to consider.  All require that we learn to look at life through our dog's eyes to best learn about his needs.  His needs and his perspective (how he views and experiences the world) are different than ours in some ways, yet very similar in many others. 

Each part of the Wellness Wheel affects each of the other parts.  All the parts work together and influence each other to create a harmonious big picture of life for each dog.  What happens in one area will impact the other areas, so an imbalance in one area can show up as an imbalance in another as well.  

A balanced dog has all of its needs met and can therefore experience wellness and well-being in all areas of its life.  This is the ideal that we all strive for.  It's important to refer back to the Wellness Wheel regularly, as these aspects of our dog's life are always changing.  By knowing what to consider in each of the aspects, we can easily make adjustments that will help keep our dog's Wellness Wheel in balance!

For the month of October, to celebrate National Pet Wellness Month, the Foundations for Canine Wellness online class will be offered at a substantial discount so that you can learn about building a strong foundation of wellness for your dog!  I hope to see you in the classroom! 

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A Holistic Perspective to Canine Wellness and Training

As a holistic dog trainer and animal wellness coach, my work centers on the importance of finding a balance in our relationship with the animals in our care.  There are many aspects to consider, and each one affects the others.  Here is an excerpt from my online course, Foundations for Canine Wellness in celebration of National Pet Wellness Month!  

"What is wellness? Wellness is defined as “the state of being in good health, especially as an actively pursued goal.” (from Google) In this course, wellness is closely married with well-being, which is defined as “the state of being comfortable, healthy, or happy.” (also from Google)

As a holistic dog trainer, I look at all parts of the picture and how they fit together. Holistic is defined as “the comprehension of the parts of something as intimately interconnected and explicable only by reference to the whole.” (Google again)

This means that we recognize that all the parts come together to directly affect the whole. There are many parts, or aspects, of our dog's life that come together to affect his/her entire life - health, happiness, fitness, nutrition, exercise, sleep, enrichment, training, environment, and so on. Each of these parts comes together to create the whole of the dog's life.

When we look at these aspects holistically, we can begin to see that there are many parts that make up the whole of our dog – physical, emotional, mental, social, behavioral, and instinctual.

As we go through this and upcoming wellness courses, we will consider all aspects of the dog’s life. We will look at health, environment, stress, training, behavior, and more. Our dog’s well-being and wellness depend widely on the choices we make on his/her behalf. Our dog relies on us to make these choices for it in most circumstances.

From a holistic training perspective, behavior is affected by many variables that are not often taken into consideration. Many trainers assume that behavior is a stand-alone issue and that training alone will change behavior. But when the concerning behavior has a deeper cause, this can create frustration as training is not able to completely clear up those concerns.

In fact, many trainers resort to forcing dogs to change their behavior out of frustration, but these are only temporary fixes, then requiring more force at a later date to keep the behavior under control. Forceful training also leads to other concerning behaviors developing that weren't there to begin with, and can lead to a decline in a dog’s well-being and quality of life.

The holistic view of training and behavior is that there is a cause behind that behavior. When we can deal with the true cause of the behavior, usually the behavior changes on its own and it is a permanent change. This is because whatever was causing the behavior is no longer there.

Changing even one aspect of a dog’s life can have a lasting impact on all the other aspects, including behavior. This is because all aspects work together interchangeably to create the whole picture that is your dog! This is the holistic perspective!"

For the month of October, the Foundations for Canine Wellness online class is being offered at a significant discount.  The class is On-Demand, so may be started at any time.  

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How Do I Get My Deaf Dog's Attention?

When people ask me how they can get their deaf dog's attention, they often mean how can they get its attention right now in this moment.  Usually this is because the dog is doing something they want it to stop, or they need the dog to come to them. 

There are various ways to get a deaf dog's attention in the moment.  By far, the most foolproof one is to actually go to where the dog is to get its attention.  By going to the dog, we can now position ourselves in a way the dog will easily see us, or we can touch the dog - either is going to alert the dog to the idea that we want its attention.  

I often notice people trying and trying to get their deaf dog (or any dog for that matter) to pay attention without success, and instead of going to the dog, they just continue to try on and on.  Meanwhile the dog is getting into trouble, and sometimes into a dangerous situation.  If what you're doing is not working - it's always best to step in and go to the dog to manage the situation quickly. 

Sometimes we may be in a situation where the dog will be able to feel a vibration through the floor.  Be aware, however, that some dogs will not really pay attention to this unless they've been taught that the vibration has some significance.  Also, surfaces carry and distribute vibrations in various ways.  In my experience, wooden decks carry vibration very well, while harder surfaces such as concrete really aren't that good at conducting vibration.  

Some dogs may respond to the vibration of a loud clap or noise.  Again, this usually works best if the dog is taught what that vibration means ahead of time.  

Flashing a light when the environment is darkened can be a great way to get a deaf dog's attention.  Many of us who live with deaf dogs have learned that flashing the porch light when the dog is in the yard at night is a suitable way to let it know to come back into the house.  Similarly, if this can also work in a darkened room of the house.

Waving an arm in a large arc that takes up a lot of space can get a deaf dog's attention too, if you can catch their eye.

An important part about getting a deaf dog's attention is to take the time to teach the dog that these things mean you'd like it to look at you for more information.  This doesn't have to take very long, and it's not complicated.  In fact, the more of these signals that you teach, the easier it will be in various circumstances to get your dog's attention quickly.  

Let's take the example of teaching a dog to pay attention to a large wave of your arm.  Begin close to your dog and with your dog already paying a bit of attention to you.  At first you need to create an association so your dog understands that an arm waving in the air is a wonderful thing to see!  So having your dog's attention when you start is the best way to create this association.  Have plenty of tasty treats handy. 

Associate the wave with a good thing - the treat!  The sequence is to wave first - make it as big as you can - and then feed a treat.  Make the treats extra special and you will see your dog making this association very quickly!  A large wave - a great treat.  This is the sequence.  Do it many times.  Then take a break and go do something else.  Probably your dog will follow and watch you closely for a bit.  That's normal. 

Do many mini sessions during the day and in different rooms of the house, or in the front yard, or the back yard.  You can even practice on walks - take your treats with you.  Right now, you want there to be a great treat every time you wave your arm so the association your dog is creating will be very strong.

After you've practiced this for several days in different environments, you can begin to throw a random wave into your day here and there.  Make sure you have that tasty treat but hide it for a bit beforehand in a pocket or a container hidden around the house.  When your dog is nearby but is not paying a lot of attention to you, wave that big wave.  When your dog notices, it should quickly pay attention to you - at which point you can reward with the treat and lots of praise or even a game!

Paying attention to you should always be a super fun thing for your dog to do!  Be sure to make it worth your dog's while to pay attention to you when you ask!  

With more practice, you should be able to give the wave signal from farther away or at more random times during the day.  If you have created a strong association by rewarding often with things your dog loves, your dog should be learning to watch for that wave out of the corner of its eye, in the hopes of seeing that you want its attention and getting something great in return!  

You can teach other attention-getting signals with the same process.  Use the signal you want to teach followed by things your dog loves!  Create the association.  Start off close to your dog and make it easy, then gradually start incorporating it into your daily life.  

Once you know the association is strong, you can begin to randomize the rewards you give.  Sometimes play a game, or give some petting if that's something your dog likes, or go for a ride in the car - just make sure it's something your dog really likes.  Getting your dog's attention for things that aren't pleasant will create avoidance instead of alert attention. 

Now you've created easy ways to get your dog's attention so you can call it to come to you, or give it a different cue signal, or just redirect its behavior.

But ... there is one more key ingredient to getting and keeping your deaf dog's attention.  And, we'll talk about that tomorrow!  

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Teaching a Name Sign to a Deaf Dog

A name sign is a sign that is a shortcut instead of finger spelling out an entire name with sign language.  It's a bit like a nickname!  It is a shortened sign to make signing a name faster and easier.  Deaf dogs can learn many different signs, and all of my dogs also learn a sign for their names.

Teaching a name sign is a great way to let your dog know you want to engage with him.  If you have multiple dogs in your home, using name signs can be very handy so the dogs know which dog you are referring to.  I use name signs to ask my dogs to take turns, or to allow one dog to come through a doorway but not a different dog.  I can ask my dogs to do different things by differentiating which one I'm addressing.

How do you decide on a name sign?  Perhaps your dog has a certain character trait you want to highlight, or an endearing nickname that already has a sign that you can use.  I tend to use the first letter of the dog's name in its name sign and choose different ways to use that hand shape.  

Vegas (pictured) has a name sign that is a V (index and middle fingers spread as a V with other fingers folded into my hand) and I shake it back and forth slightly in the air.  Owen has an O hand shape (all fingers curled and touching my thumb to create a circle) and instead of shaking back and forth, his drops slightly downward in the air. 

To teach Vegas to pay attention to this new sign, I use his name sign whenever we are doing things he likes!  Name sign, then treat!  Name sign, then his meal!  Name sign while we are playing his favorite games!  Name sign when I put his leash on to go outside!  He will learn by association that the sign refers to him and that something good will happen.

I don't use a name sign if I am going to do something my dog is not fond of - bathing, going to the vet, etc.  I will just go get my dog.  I always want only positive things associated with my dog's name sign.  I always want my dogs eager to engage with me and come running when they notice their name sign! 

  

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How to Choose Signs for Deaf Dogs

Is there a secret to choosing signs for deaf dogs?  Sometimes people ask me how I choose which signs to use for my dogs, and new adopters of deaf dogs are normally very concerned with choosing the right signs.

The truth is, that any signal you use consistently will come to have significant meaning to you and your dog.  If I pat the top of my head every time I take my dog outside, my dog will very quickly begin to know that patting the top of my head signals a walk!  There is no magic formula for choosing which signs to use.  

There is not a formal sign language for use with dogs.  People living with deaf dogs use an assortment of signs for their dogs.  There is no right or wrong answer as to which ones should be used. 

It's important to have consistency with the signs you choose for a deaf dog.  Make sure that you and your family members remember which signs mean what, and that you are making the signs in the same way so your dog won't get confused.  

You may choose to use a formal type of human sign language with your dog.  You can do searches online to help you find signs for various cues and words you want to teach your dog.  Many sites have videos to show you how to do each sign, so you can watch and practice until you feel comfortable.  Here is one that lets you type in a word and do a search for the sign that means that word or phrase.  https://www.signingsavvy.com/

You may choose to use widely accepted hand signals that are used for dog obedience exercises.  You can do a search for dog obedience hand signals to find these.  Or you can even do searches for signs to use with deaf dogs and find many sites with examples.  Don't let yourself be confused, though, as signs may be different from site to site.  This is because as long as you are consistent with the signs you choose, your dog won't care which ones you use.

I have chosen a number of signs to use from various sources, and some I have made up myself.  My deaf dogs know some made up signs, some dog obedience signs, and some actual sign language cues.  You can see some examples of the signs I use on the Uniquely Paws-Able site in the Library where there are sample videos of me working with my dogs in various capacities.  You can find that page here:  https://uniquely-paws-able.teachable.com/p/library-free 

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Therapy Dog!

Congratulations to Vinny!  He got his official Therapy Dog paperwork and tag just in time - did you know that today is National Therapy Animal Day?  It is!  

A day to celebrate animals of all types that provide love and therapy to others!  I have been blessed to partner with several therapy dogs in my lifetime.  Vinny is my 5th therapy dog partner.  

Not all organizations are open to evaluating dogs that are both blind and deaf.  I was fortunate to work with a local group with Treasure (blind and deaf) and they were open to evaluating her and seeing just what she could do.  She passed with flying colors and was my therapy dog partner for 8 years.  She is now mostly retired and has passed her knowledge along to Vinny.

I'm so excited to begin our therapy dog work together!  

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Hearing - or Not Hearing

I am sick - which is a bummer.  But I've also had a chance to experience first-hand something that I counsel so many people about - dogs losing their hearing, or dogs with partial hearing.

My left ear has been clogged now from this cold for several days.  I am not hearing normally from that side.  While this is annoying for me, I had a revelation yesterday.  And then I started to pay more attention to what I was hearing and not hearing.

Sounds that normally I would not pay attention to, or would discount easily and go on with my day, were startling me.  I couldn't recognize what the sound was or where it was coming from.  It's unsettling to hear something and not know what it is.  

Each time I went to investigate, I found out the sound was one that I hear every day and easily would have known what it was from a distance.  Because I would have recognized the sound, it would have been very easy to go on with my day.  

Dogs that are losing their hearing must go through this same thing.  How unsettling for them.  Of course, on an intellectual level I already knew this was true - but experiencing it for myself allowed me to put an actual emotional experience with it.  

I felt myself startle, hold my breath and try to listen harder to figure out the noise I was hearing.  I felt the compulsion to know and went searching to find out what it was.  I felt the unsettled feeling of hearing unfamiliar sounds.  My dogs do the same, and they may jump up barking and carrying on because they've heard something unusual that they can't identify - something that may be a threat and they should warn us about.

Dogs born with partial hearing won't always be able to recognize or pinpoint where a sound is coming from.  Dogs with ear infections or other conditions that affect their ears may become more fearful or reactive as they deal with things not sounding the same and safe to them.  And dogs losing their hearing too.  We have no way to know exactly what they are hearing at any given point in that process.  

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For The Curious - Your Questions Answered

Thank you to everyone who contributed questions and wonderings for this blog post, and for what will probably be several more to come!  (I received a lot of questions!)  Here are a few to get you started:

What kind of commands can you teach a dog that cannot see or hear?

How do you communicate with a deaf and blind dog?

How does your dog (blind and deaf) know what you want him to do?

Dogs that cannot see or hear can be taught tactile cues.  These are cues that the dog can feel through its body somehow.  I can use touch in different ways and on different parts of my dog's body as requests for certain behaviors (sit, lie down, etc) or to provide information (mealtime, car ride, outside, etc).  I can also use anything that my dog can feel as a cue.  I can use differing surfaces as cues.  I also use gently blowing on my dog as a cue, and puffs of air as a cue.  As long as my dog can perceive the information through touch, I can turn that into a cue by using it consistently to mean the same thing each time.  It is also possible to use scents as cues, but these must be used carefully because scent does not usually stay in one place - it drifts around - and scents can mix together or stay in an area for an extended period of time.  So using scents as cues needs to be well-thought out and put into place by someone who has taken the time to learn about scent/odor.

How do you call your blind and deaf dogs to come?

My dogs have a touch cue to come to me - a swipe forward under their chins.  They also recognize that when I blow toward them, they follow my breath back to come to me.  The blowing is handy in the house and sometimes outside.  But if it is breezy or my dog is too far away from me, my breath is not strong enough to always reach them in a direct manner.  I also can sometimes use turning on or off a light in the house to signal that I am leaving a room and want my dog to come with me.  If the difference between light and dark is significant, my blind/deaf dogs can sense the change in light even though they have no vision.  They know that means we are leaving the room and will come with me.  Flashing a porch light at night can sometimes work as well unless they are way far out in the yard and the change in light is not as significant - then they don't notice.

Is it hard to teach blind/deaf dogs new tricks or commands?

There are many variables in teaching any dog new things.  If those variables are put into place with a blind/deaf dog, it is not hard to teach them new things.  All dogs (even blind/deaf dogs) learn new things all the time on their own ... they learn that sitting instead of jumping might bring a treat; they learn that jumping up onto the counter will find them a tasty treat; they learn that pulling on a leash usually gets them to where they want to go faster ... you get the idea.  If you know what the dog finds reinforcing, and you can provide that reinforcement after the behaviors you like, the dog will learn to do those things more and more.  Then you can add a cue to it (see above about tactile cues), and voila!  You've taught your blind/deaf dog something new!  You can also utilize methods of getting the behavior you want, such as luring, shaping and capturing, just like you can with a dog that can see and hear!  Sometimes teaching a blind/deaf dog does require a little bit of thinking outside the box and adding creative ideas to your lessons, but the ideas of teaching remain the same.

What percentage of vision do double merles typically have?

Double merles can have varying visual abilities - ranging from perfectly normal to totally blind.  Some may even have impairments with their sight that will continue to deteriorate over time, as they get older.  Others will maintain whatever level of sight they do have for their lifetime.  There really is no definite answer to this question.  A veterinary ophthalmologist will be able to examine the dog's eyes and give you an idea of what type and extent of impairment there is, as well as a guess as to how or if it will progress.

Do double merles typically have compromised immune systems and more than average health issues?

Do special needs dogs have medical issues?

I am not aware of any studies showing that double merles have any higher incidents of health issues than other dogs.  While there are many double merles with other health issues and weakened immune systems, there are also so many non-double merles with these issues.  And there are many double merles that are healthy for their entire lifetimes, just like there are many non-double merles without major health problems.  It's important when breeding any dog to take many things into consideration and to do health and genetic testing, etc, to make sure the puppies have the best chance for perfect health and well-being.  Of course, we know that most double merles do not come from breeders who have done their homework and tested both parents extensively before breeding.  There are now genetic tests available for so many health conditions that can be passed on from parent to puppy.  It's easy to rule out the chances of these being passed on before the mating is even done.  So, without that testing and attention being paid to a new litter, it is likely that double merles (and non-double merles) that are bred in this way will pass along any health issues that they have.

Some dogs that are labelled as special needs do have medical issues.  There are so many different medical conditions that a dog can have.  It's important to know what these issues are as much as possible when you are considering adopting a dog with special requirements, whether double merle or not.

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TriDex 2018

Mom and I spent the weekend at the first ever Trick Dog Expo!  It was amazing to be in a place with so many people and dogs that love tricks just as much as we do!  

Mom started the weekend by giving a presentation, starring ... me (and my friends too)!  She taught people all about how to teach dogs that are visually and/or hearing impaired.  She had a good turnout and people had very good questions.  She even gave away a signed copy of one of her books to a lucky listener!  

I spent the weekend learning about Klimbs - most of the workshops and the stunt dog competitions all used the Klimb.  I liked it and knew right away to put my front feet on it, just like I do with some of our other props.  But Mom wanted me to put all four feet on it, and I am a big boy with a long body.  I had to really practice to figure out how to fit all my feet up on it.  When I got my back feet up on it, I felt like my front feet couldn't fit too.  But I mastered the Klimb and now I hop right up on it right away!  Mom told me I looked best on the purple one.  

When I wasn't enjoying the workshops and learning new things for treats, there were other cool games to try.  This was a maze made out of  hay bales.  Mom started out leading the way and I followed, but soon I got tired of going so slowly and I passed her and led her the rest of the way out of the maze!  It was fun and I wanted to do it again!  

Mom was excited there was barn hunt to try - but when we got there, there weren't any rats.  So we practiced our hide and seek with treats.  I hear they will have this game at the Special K9 Games in May -  maybe I will actually get to meet some rats there!  I wonder if they smell good?

We had so much fun at TriDex!  I hope we can come back again next year.  It was my very first dog Expo/Conference.  Mom was real proud of me and how happy and calm I was with everything going on.  We even finished our very first 2K, and my medal matched colors with my vest and leash!  

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Getting Started with Touch Cues

There are two types of touch cues - these are cues that you give to your dog by touching various parts of his body in different ways, to mean different things.  If your dog can't see or hear you cues, touch cues give you the perfect way to begin communicating with him.  Having a way to communicate is crucial to living in harmony with your dog.  You can tell him what to expect to happen, and how you want him to respond.  And your dog will feel safe, calmer and more confident when these things are clear to him too, and he doesn't need to guess.

The two types of touch cues are information and request.  Information cues do just that - they give information.  These would be signs that tell your dog what is happening or going to happen.  Examples of these would be: mealtime, outside, grooming time, car ride, etc.  Request cues are used when you want to request a behavior from your dog - sit, lie down, come, stay, leave it, etc. When most people think about cues, they are thinking of request cues.  I've added information cues here too, because I believe they are very important.  

Dogs are always gathering as much information from their environment as they can.  Dogs that can hear may notice the jingle of your keys, hear the mail person's footsteps, or hear a knock on the door.  These sounds become cues to your dog - information cues. They let your dog know what is going on or is about to happen.  Dogs that can see are also very good at noticing information cues.  They may watch you putting your shoes on and know what the agenda is for the day.  Are you putting on running shoes, hiking boots, work shoes or fancy heels?  Dogs can learn the difference!  

Blind and deaf dogs will also learn some information cues from the environment, especially if you have other dogs that react to them.  But they miss out on key visual and auditory information cues that we can provide to them in the form of touch.  It's nice for them to know what's going to happen next.  

You may find when you first begin to use touch cues with your dog, that he startles or even moves away from you.  If no one has tried to communicate with him in this way before, this is all new and he won't understand at first.  But he will catch on quickly.  If you are also playing touch = food games with your dog, the startle should diminish quickly.  

As for going the other way, this is something I've noticed in some dogs.  When they are touched, they may react as if they have bumped into something, and they may quickly stop and go the other direction.  This also diminishes as the dog begins to realize that certain touches mean certain things.  But as he is learning, you can help steady him with a calm and steady touch with one hand while you give the new touch cue with the other hand.  By touching and steadying first, the initial surprise of the touch has time to dissipate and the dog is now better able to focus on the new touch cue. 

Don't try to name everything at once.  If this is a new way of communicating for you and your dog, you both need time to become familiar with the process.  You will need time to practice and remember the signs so they become automatic for you to use and give in a consistent manner.  Your dog will need time to learn what the new touches mean and to build his vocabulary.  Decide on one or two touch cues to start out with.  If you are starting with information cues, you can begin with going outside and mealtime, as these are two things that all dogs experience every day.  This will allow you both several opportunities every day to practice and for most dogs, these will be two experiences that they really like and look forward to.  They should pick up on the cues quickly.

When teaching information cues, you can use the chosen cue consistently immediately prior to and during the event that you're naming.  For example, if you are teaching the cue for outside, give it as you are at the door about to open it.  Then use it as you are opening the door and again as you are going out.  Eventually you will only need to use it once, and if you use it across the house, your dog will probably beat you to the door!  But for now, as you are introducing it, try to use it immediately prior to and during the event.  If you are introducing a cue for mealtime, give the cue as you already have the dog's food ready, and then again as you put the food bowl down.

When teaching request cues, it is best if you can to try to initiate the behavior first a few times without the cue, so you can be sure your dog is comfortable doing the behavior.  Once your dog is comfortable doing the behavior (luring into a sit position, for example), add the cue you will use just prior to helping the behavior to happen.  So the order would be, touch cue for sit, then lure dog into a sit, then reward and praise.  In this way, the dog will begin to anticipate and try to do the behavior on his own when he notices the cue.  This will allow you to stop using the lure as the dog learns to respond first to the cue.  

When dogs learn cues, they don't automatically differentiate between them.  It takes practice for the dog to learn to distinguish one cue from another, especially if they are not context specific.  If sometimes you ask the dog to sit, then down, or to shake hands, you may notice him sometimes "guessing" and giving the wrong behavior.  This is a normal part of learning.  Take time to practice, help the dog get it right, and reinforce a lot when he does!  

Try to keep the touch cues as clear as possible.  If cue delivery gets sloppy, the dog may interpret the cue as something else entirely.  This may be noticeable if the dog knows a lot of cues if those cues are given close together on the dog's body.  A sloppy cue can easily shift to another area of the body, which may be where a different cue is given.  Consistency is important if you want a consistent cue response. 

There are no set-in-stone touch cues that you should use.  Use whatever makes sense to you, because you will be the one who needs to remember them!  Be sure that other people in the home or that interact with your dog on a regular basis know the cues so everyone can be consistent.  If they are simple touches, such as a tap on the hips for sit, these can be listed and hung on the fridge.  If the cues are more complex, it may be helpful to video them.  This can be very helpful if you hire a dog walker or pet sitter.  It gives a clear record of how to communicate with your dog.  

I hope this has given you some tips on how to get started teaching touch cues.  Watch for follow-up posts showing some examples of touch cues that I use for my own blind deaf dogs.  

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Encouraging Play and Activity With Newly Blind Dogs

When a dog loses its sense of sight, its whole world changes.  There are many things that dogs can do without their sight, but dogs that started out sighted and are now blind are often confused and maybe even fearful when they can no longer see.  They can't interact with their world the way they used to.  

Most likely, they knew landmarks around the house and yard by sight, they knew family members by their mannerisms and how they moved, they could see the steps were nearby, or that there was a curb or obstacle in front of them on their walk.  Now, all that visual information has disappeared.

It is a fairly common concern to pet parents that their dog appears depressed and may stop interacting with its world in the special ways it used to.  There is, of course, going to be a time of transition when the dog will begin to relearn how to navigate by a different map.  They will create a mental map, now relying more on smell and tactile information such as surfaces, air currents, and feeling their way around. 

There are ways that we can help our dog through this transition and encourage them to stay engaged with daily activities, to play, and to be active.  

The very first thing to consider, is that our dogs are very in tune with us and they take their cues from us.  When we are worried about our dogs, and sad because they've lost their sight (which is normal for us to do), our dogs can sense these emotions in us.  Our mood and our thoughts and feelings always affect our dogs.  It is normal for us to grieve when our dog loses its sight.  And it's healthy for us to grieve.  There are many wonderful groups on social media particularly centered around dogs that are blind.  These are great resources, and they are also great support systems.  You can talk with people who will understand what you're going through, who can help you problem-solve, and who can tell you stories to give you hope.

It's OK to comfort your dog if she's feeling confused or scared.  You won't make her feelings worse.  She needs to know you're there for her.  Help her to feel safe and loved.  But also help her to feel empowered and confident in herself.  Teach her the skills she needs to know to become self-sufficient again.  

It may be overwhelming for your dog to try to navigate the entire house and yard suddenly without sight.  It's often helpful to give your dog a smaller area to learn to navigate first. You can use gates or ex pens to create smaller areas for her to safely explore at first. And it is very helpful to have your dog wear a harness so you can easily help guide her along routes in the house and yard that she will use often.  Go at her speed, and help her to avoid obstacles.  It's no fun for anyone to run face-first into a doorway or a table. 

With consistent guidance, she will begin to learn how those routes smell, how they feel to her feet, and how many steps to take between point A and point B.  Try to keep furniture and the layout of her world the same.  Keep her food and water in the same place, her bed where it has always been, etc.  As she learns these routes, you will find you need to guide her less and less until she can do it herself.  This will give her confidence.

Encourage play with favorite toys as she is ready.  I use longer plush toys, so there is room for my hand at one end, and still plenty of room at the other end for the dog to grab the toy without grabbing my hand (because she can't see it).  Will she chase it if you toss it across the room like you used to?  Perhaps.  But it is more likely that you will need to learn a new way of playing with her.  Move the toy back and forth near her, but touch her with it playfully as you pull it around on her level.  Let it move over her paws so she can feel it moving and be tempted to grab at it.  If she can hear, use your voice to excite her in the same ways you used to so she recognizes this is a game.

Many blind dogs enjoy light tug of war games with toys.  This way, she can play while keeping the toy in her mouth where she can keep track of it.  Some enjoy chasing toys that make noises as they move - giggle balls, balls with bells inside (always supervised!), stuffed toys that continue to make noises after they are squeezed, etc.  Most enjoy toys that can be stuffed with yummy treats to tempt their noses and taste buds.  These can be played with as toys, used as enrichment activities, hidden around the room for her to sniff out and find, etc. 

Blind dogs still enjoy going for walks and outings.  If she liked to ride in the car, continue to take her out and about.  Don't stop doing her favorite things just because she can't see.  She will enjoy the smells of going some place new, the breeze in her face, the lick of your ice cream.  If your dog is reluctant to walk, take it slow.  Just take her out and go at her pace.  There's no place you need to go in a hurry, right?  Just let her explore at her pace.

Give her time to acclimate to the new surroundings.  Maybe sit with her and read a book if you need  something to occupy the time while you wait.  She will eventually step out and begin sniffing around.  This creates confidence, and if you do it often, she will begin to go farther and farther.  Your dog may appreciate it if you wear a small bell or a set of keys on your belt loop when you are out for a walk so she can easily hear and keep track of you.  

Take time to reteach her how to walk with you on a leash.  I prefer to use a harness with a leash attached to both the front ring and the back ring at the same time.  One end of the leash to each attachment point.  If your leash only has one clip, you can use a lightweight carabiner clip on the handle end of your leash to attach it to the harness. This allows your dog to receive more information about where you are, how fast you're going,etc.  Your dog probably kept track of you on walks by sight in the past.  Now she will need to relearn how to use her other senses to keep track of you - by smell, by hearing where you are, and by feeling you through the leash.  

Teach her verbal and/or touch cues to help her navigate her world.  Teach her to stop and wait, to step up or down for a curb or a set of steps, etc.  These will help her understand her world better, and will help you to keep her safe.

Enrichment activities are important for any dog, but can really help to increase a blind dog's confidence and interest in the world around her.  You can use your dog's regular meals to encourage toy play by putting her food in the many varieties of puzzle toys that are available.  You can even make your own in some cases.  

Enrichment activities can use all the senses she has available.  So taste of course, and smell is very important.  Snuffle mats are great for encouraging sniffing and searching.  You can teach her to search out treats or toys you hide (easy at first and then making the game more challenging) in the house or yard, or even out on your walks.  

If your dog can hear, try hanging a wind chime, or playing music.  And touch is important too - helping her to feel confident on all surfaces will go a long way toward helping her be more active.  A dog that is not confident walking across tile floors, for instance, is more likely to remain in her bed than venture out and risk walking on one.  Even if she used to walk on your kitchen floor, she may be hesitant to now.  Remember, this is new for her to experience the same floor but through different sensory input.

Teach your dog new things!  This will help get her up and active and engaged with you and her environment.  There are so many ideas here in this blog!  Have a look and pick something you'd like to teach your dog.  

Tellington TTouch, massage and other calming touch, and modalities such as Healing Touch for Animals, will help reduce your dog's anxiety and stress, and will help her to relax.  A relaxed dog will be more likely to try new things and to play.  Plus, these are techniques you can learn to do yourself with your dog, so they will also help to relax you at the same time!

I've written many posts here in the blog about enrichment activities, food toys, and even teaching leash walking to a blind/deaf dog, that may be useful to you during this time of transition.  The most important thing to remember is that this IS a time of transition.  For you and your dog.  Be patient and be kind in guiding her and helping her.  Allow yourself to grieve, and then, allow yourself to empower your dog.  Empower her to be confident and to try new things, and cheer her on every step of the way.

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Learning a New Way to Communicate

Sometimes we know in advance if our dog will lose sight and/or hearing.  I have a senior dog now who is mostly deaf from age.  So far his sight seems OK, but I know it too may begin to fade.  There are some things we can do to help ease this transition for our dogs.  

One is to teach hand signals to our dogs for basic every day behaviors (sit, lie down, wait at the door, come) and for some of the fun tricks they know (fetch, shake hands, spin, etc).  It's fairly easy to teach dogs hand signals.  If you've originally taught your dog the behavior with a food lure, often the hand movement you use can become a hand signal for the behavior even when you're no longer using food to elicit the behavior.  For example, many people raise their hand up when teaching a dog to sit - this same raising up of the hand can become the hand signal.  If you practice with the hand signal and reward often, your dog will respond just as easily to the hand signal.  

Think of behaviors you ask of your dog throughout the day, and perhaps you are already using a hand gesture (signal) that you can continue using.  Sometimes use just the signal and see if your dog responds without your verbal input.  If not, you can remind with the verbal at first.  The sequence would be - signal - pause just long enough to see if your dog will respond - verbal to remind if needed - reward.

It's important as your dog loses hearing to be animated with your praise - use petting, use play, always use a happy face, clap your hands.  If your dog was once hearing, praise will be important and the tone of your voice gives him cues.  You can begin now while he has hearing, to add these things - clapping your hands, smiling, acting happy in your body language - to your verbal praise so he begins to associate them together.  Dogs really tune into our body language.  But by teaching this when your dog can still hear, you will associate those body motions with all the lovely verbal praise that he's already learned to love.

As dogs lose their hearing, they begin to sleep heavier and will often wake up with a startle.  Startling is a normal behavior and you may never get rid of it totally, but a dog that can hear will be woken up gradually by sounds in its environment which its brain will recognize.  As the hearing begins to fade away, noises may not sound the same and his brain may not be able to recognize what they are, or he may not hear the noises at all.  So when you do wake him up, or he gets bumped, he will jump up and be scared until he realizes where he is and who is with him.

It's easy to help with this and you can play these games from the time your dog is a puppy, but I find it is important to revisit them as your dog becomes a senior or when you first notice his hearing may be fading.  Do lots of trading touch for treats.  You touch him, he gets a wonderful treat.  Do it a lot just as a fun game.  Do it when he is awake and paying attention at first.  Then do it while he is awake but perhaps not paying attention, so you surprise him a bit.  And lastly, do it every once in a while when he's asleep.  It's courteous to allow him to sleep without interruption, but sometimes there is a reason you will need to wake him up - be ready and give several special treats as soon as you wake him up.  Help him associate being startled with something good, so he won't wake up fearful, he will wake up and look forward to the good treats that are to come.

If your dog is losing his eye sight, begin to teach him cues that will help him navigate his environment and stay safe.  If he can hear, use verbal cues to help him learn to stop, wait, to go up or down a step or curb, etc.  Help him.  Guide him gently so he learns new ways of navigating around the house and yard.  You may want to put a small bell on your wrist or ankle when you go for a walk so your dog can keep track of where you are and whether you're moving or not.  Of course, you can also talk to or sing to him so he has a voice to follow.  

Try to empower him and teach him problem solving as often as possible.  Teach him new ways to play with you that you both enjoy.  Think of how much he relies on the vision he does have during his daily activities.  Are there things you can do to help him get around safely?  Gates at the top and bottom of steps or drop offs are easy to implement.  Blind dogs can maneuver steps, but they should be supervised, especially in the beginning.  

You will learn to watch out for obstacles that you don't normally think about steering your dog around - fire hydrants, trees, branches on a bush, curbs, etc.  There are tools that can help a blind dog to navigate.  If you are thinking of using a halo harness, or eye protection, begin to condition your dog to them now, making sure you are creating a positive association and that you are both having fun.  It can be a scary transition for a dog to lose its sight.  Plunking a lot of new, weird equipment on your dog at this time can cause him to shut down and be more fearful.  Take it slowly.  

When a dog in a multiple dog family loses its sight, there may be a period of adjustment among the dogs.  The blind dog may bump into other dogs or overstep their bounds into another dog's space - something he would not have done before because he could see to judge distance, could see the other dogs, and could respond to their communications.  Now, he may find himself getting into trouble, as the other dogs may see him as rude stepping into their space.  Be prepared to supervise and to change the way you all interact for awhile.  If there is any tension, don't leave a blind dog unsupervised with the other dogs, even if they have been left alone for years.  Separate or supervise.  At least until you're sure everyone has adjusted.

At some point, your dog may lose both its sight and hearing.  Begin to teach touch cues for things that you communicate to your dog every day.  A touch cue doesn't need to be complicated.  Touching a dog under the chin can mean, come forward, let's go.  Putting a harness on will become a touch cue that you are going outside for potty or a walk.  Develop a language through touch.  Loving touch is very important just to show your dog how special he is.  We all crave touch and it is very important to a dog that is blind and deaf to continue to have special loving touch daily. 

Most important of all, perhaps, is to realize that you will be sad when you realize your dog is losing sight or hearing.  This is normal and natural.  It's OK to be sad and to grieve.  You and your dog will both go through a transition period.  Please be kind to yourself during this time, and have patience with your dog.  Help him and guide him.  Take time to help him enjoy things that he's always enjoyed - sharing an ice cream cone, hanging out on the deck in the sun, going for a car ride, etc.  Together you will both start to realize a new reality that is not worse than before, but is just different than before.  

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