Acclimating Resident Animals to a Blind Deaf Dog

Whether you are bringing a new dog into your home that is visually/hearing impaired, or one of your current dogs is losing sight/hearing, there will be an adjustment period for each family member.  When there are other animals in the home, they will need to be helped with this transition.  Dog-dog interactions often give people the most concern.  Cats will normally find and retreat to a safer place to rest out of the dog's way.  Smaller animals must of course be kept safe from dogs that might consider them prey.  Today's post will be specifically about dog-dog interactions.  

Do animals know when another is blind/deaf?

I'm often asked if animals know that another animal is blind or deaf.  I don't believe other animals have a sense of blind/deaf as we think about it.  I do believe that animals are very adaptable and can  learn to interact and communicate with a blind/deaf dog in adapted ways. 

For instance, my dogs will adapt their play style to my blind dogs so there is more touching involved with the play.  The dogs that can see will approach and touch the blind dogs more often during play in order to keep the game going.  While those same dogs might prefer to play chase and keep away games with my other seeing dogs. 

My herding dog that enjoys having all of the dogs going in the same direction, realizes that my blind/deaf dog isn't following the pack of dogs into the house, so he runs back out into the yard to touch that dog and let it know that everyone else is coming to the house.  Does he realize that the blind/deaf dog cannot see or hear?  Only he knows the answer to that for sure, but I don't think those things really much matter to a dog.  

I do know that he realizes that he likes all the dogs to come in together and that one isn't coming, so he learned that going out to touch that dog will bring awareness to what is going on and the dog will then come to the house.

These are the wonderful stories that we as humans like to focus on - oh look at him helping his blind/deaf brother.  Isn't it wonderful and heart-warming how he looks out for him?

I do believe our dogs notice that another dog is not responding in the same way as they might expect, and so then they adapt their communication to be more suitable to the blind/deaf dog.  But this takes time.  Just like it would take us time and practice to learn a new way of communicating, the same is true with our dogs and other animals in the home.  They will need time to adjust as well. 

Dogs live by dog rules! 

There is another side of reality when living with blind and/or deaf dogs.  A deaf dog may get startled awake one too many times by the other dogs playing nearby and can jump up in a bad mood, perhaps even biting at the dogs that woke him up so suddenly and rudely.  To a dog, being bumped into suddenly is rude.  He is not being a bad dog.  He is acting and communicating normally with those that ran into him and woke him up. 

resting in an open crate

Animals have their own "rules" about what is appropriate and polite behavior.  Being awakened by another dog jumping on your head or stepping on your tail - not cool or polite.  And this may not just be the blind/deaf dog being startled suddenly.  A seeing/hearing dog may get tired of being stepped on or having its space disturbed by a blind dog as well.   

You may notice over time that your dogs learn to find new resting places where they are less likely to be in high traffic areas.  My dogs enjoy napping in crates that are left with doors open.  This allows them a place to rest nearby to the rest of the family activity, but they are safely contained in a spot where they are unlikely to be bumped or stepped on unexpectedly.  

The crate allows them that safety space around them that they crave to feel safe while they nap.  The open doors allow them to choose when they want to go in or come out.  

Blind dogs and space

Space is very important to dogs.  They use space to communicate with each other and to feel safe.   A blind dog can't judge distance very well without getting closer than many dogs are comfortable with.  Each dog has their own personal space bubble - some may be larger than others.  If you have multiple dogs, you probably have observed this. 

Some dogs like to sleep cuddled up next to each other, while others prefer to have space around them.  Others may like to sleep in an enclosed area such as under a table or in a corner. 

Unless dogs have an understanding of living with blind dogs already, they can have a real problem with a blind dog getting into their space, stepping on them, coming close while they are chewing a bone, etc.  They will think this is very rude behavior, and while they may appear to be tolerant the first few times it happens, if it continues to happen and the blind dog is not responding to their warnings to be careful and give more space ... well, that's when things start to escalate.  While it's upsetting to us, again, this is normal dog communication. 

The blind dog may be trying to get close to the other dogs to find a sense of security, or to investigate the bone they're smelling, without realizing that the other dog is giving him a hard stare to stay away, or is posturing its body differently, or even if they are growling or lifting a lip.  If we don't notice these signs and intervene, we risk our dogs getting stressed and injured.

Management is key! 

It's important to allow all dogs their own space.  Be watchful always and don't leave dogs unattended together for quite awhile until you can be certain everyone will be comfortable and safe.  This may mean some extra management on your part - using gates, ex pens, crates, different rooms or levels within the room (one dog on the couch if another can't reach the couch, etc), keeping dogs leashed when necessary, etc.

There is always management and intervention going on in my house, as I have multiple dogs, each with differing needs and personalities. 

If my younger bigger dogs are wrestling and running around while playing, I will help my senior dog move away from the activity and I will look out for him so he doesn't get stomped on or bumped into.  He can't hear very well anymore and he has arthritis.  I think some of his vision is fading as well.  He could get seriously hurt by being jumped on by a much bigger, younger dog - so I look out for him. 

Because he has been startled awake by my other dogs a few times, he can be grouchy when he is woken up suddenly by them and he will be quick to tell them off.  So I wake him up when we need to move past him or when the other dogs want to jump off the bed but he's resting on the floor nearby.  I wake him first in a calm and appropriate way, and then the other dogs can come through once he's moved out of their path.

My blind/deaf dog is large and young and boisterous.  It's up to me to intervene when he gets to be too much for the older, smaller dogs.  He has learned to be respectful of them but every now and then, his youthfulness shines through and he pesters them a bit.  If I don't intervene, I know he will be wearing a battle scar on his snout.

Creating a peaceful household

Giving each dog their own space in the beginning will help everyone adapt and feel safe.  Allowing short times together when you are actively supervising will set everyone up for success.  And if you have more than two dogs, allowing them together in alternating pairs first can be helpful.  Allow dog 1 to meet dog 2, then 1 to meet dog 3, then 1 to meet 4, then perhaps 1 -2- and 3, etc.  This allows the dogs to begin to create their own relationships without being bombarded by all the dogs at once.

This is a great idea for new fosters coming into the home, a newly adopted dog, and even for resident dogs with newly appearing special needs - such as losing sight/hearing, after surgery or injury, etc.

Be sure to safely separate dogs as necessary when you can't be home or when you can't supervise closely at first.  A disagreement can very quickly get out of hand and a dog(s) can get hurt!  There are many options for keeping animals separated when you can't supervise - gates, different rooms, crates, wire exercise pens (one of my favorites because they are portable and very versatile), etc.  

Leaving dogs to argue it out and settle things for themselves often creates more tension between them that quickly escalates and causes more concerning behaviors.  It's rarely sufficient to allow them to work it out themselves.  

Dogs, like people, learn very quickly which dogs they feel safe with, and which others cause them stress.  Think about people you are stressed by in your life - at work, school, etc.  You begin to have an automatic emotional response to them when you see them, or even when you hear their voice, right?  Dogs are the same.  

So if you allow your dogs to be stressed by each other and take matters into their own hands, often the stress continues to escalate until there are conditioned bad feelings.  This will make it very difficult to find and maintain peace in the future.  

Instead, set everyone up for success and feeling safe and stress free.  This will help you create and keep that peace going forward into the future. 

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, and online classes and resources there to assist you!  

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Teaching Automatic Check Ins to a Deaf Dog

A very important key to getting and keeping your deaf dog's attention is to teach an Automatic Check-In.  This sounds just like what it means.  

We want to teach the dog to check in with us often and automatically throughout the day. Think of all the times when you want to get your deaf dog's attention but it's looking in another direction or in another room, or is across the yard from you.  These are those times when people want to know how to get their deaf dog's attention.  The times when the dog is not looking at us.

It's important that we have certain signals that ask our dog to pay attention to us in the moment, such as what we discussed yesterday.  These are signals that we can teach to our dogs.  Just the fact that we are teaching those signals will help our dogs to watch us closer, because the dog doesn't want to miss the signal and miss a chance to get or do something fun with us.  

But the dog still needs to be looking in our direction or be close enough that we can give the signal easily, right?  What about those times when it's not?  

What if we could create many opportunities throughout the day when the dog was magically looking at us and close enough to us to see our signals?  Wouldn't that make life so much easier?  

We can teach our dogs to keep an eye on us and to come see what we're doing on a regular basis throughout the day (this is called checking-in with us).  The idea is that the dog will do this on its own without us needing to give a signal (this is the automatic part).  Each time the dog looks at us or comes close to us to check in, we have an opportunity to communicate with a signal cue if we want to. This opens up so many more opportunities for us to be able to communicate clearly and easily with our deaf dog.

Dogs of any age can learn this, and I usually start as soon as a dog enters my home or comes for its first lesson.  Create a situation where the dog will remain near you and where there aren't a lot of distractions.  Believe it or not, the bathroom is a great place to begin!  It's a smaller room, and there aren't usually too many distractions going on.  (Although toilet paper can be a huge distraction to some dogs!)

It's important to remember that the idea of this exercise is not to try to get the dog's attention.  The idea is for the dog to give you its attention on its own.  This can be difficult because it involves patience on the part of the teacher.  

Every time your dog turns toward you, give it one of those wonderful treats!  And smile and act happy that your dog has noticed you.  It won't take long before your dog will be following you around the bathroom, not wanting to look away.  When this happens, reward and then end the lesson.

Try to be as aware as you can even during your regular day to day activities of your dog - there will be times that it looks at you or comes to see what you're doing.  Be ready to reward those times too!  You can have containers of treats in various parts of your house or in your pocket.  

But you can also reward with other rewards your dog will like - petting, smiling, belly rub, toss a toy, etc.  At this point, you will want to continue with your formal bathroom lessons, but also be aware to reward times when your dog checks-in on its own!  Your teaching will go much faster that way!

It will take some practice on your part too - you will need to teach yourself to be aware of your dog paying attention.  Often we get busy and our dog will check in with us, but we may not notice.  As your dog learns to check in, you will also learn to check in and be aware.

You should find that very quickly your dog won't need to be in the bathroom for lessons anymore.  Begin to practice in other places and situations, gradually increasing distractions.  When you increase distractions, you will want to use high value treats in the beginning.  

Keep your dog close to you in the beginning when you are adding distractions.  This may mean using a gate or a leash so your dog can't get to the distractions.  Remember, the idea is not for you to ask your dog to pay attention - the idea is for the dog to decide.  So be patient and be ready as soon as the dog turns toward you, to reward and celebrate!  

You will be able to begin to mix up the rewards you use, like we talked about yesterday.  The more you can show your dog that you like it checking in with you, the better the behavior will become. But you don't always have to use a treat.  

My dogs have been doing check-ins for years, but I will always acknowledge them for checking in to keep the behavior strong.  Sometimes all it takes is a smile and a nod to let them know I noticed, or a scratching behind the ear.  

The day that you want to give your dog a signal cue but it is looking the other way and then, in an instant, it looks back to see what you're doing, you can smile - and then give your dog that cue you wanted to give.  It's so convenient to have a deaf dog that learns to pay attention without you asking for it.  I know that if I just pause a moment, my dog will check in with me, so I can give it a signal.  

Teach the automatic check in - you will thank yourself (and your dog) for it soon! 

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How Do I Get My Deaf Dog's Attention?

When people ask me how they can get their deaf dog's attention, they often mean how can they get its attention right now in this moment.  Usually this is because the dog is doing something they want it to stop, or they need the dog to come to them. 

There are various ways to get a deaf dog's attention in the moment.  By far, the most foolproof one is to actually go to where the dog is to get its attention.  By going to the dog, we can now position ourselves in a way the dog will easily see us, or we can touch the dog - either is going to alert the dog to the idea that we want its attention.  

I often notice people trying and trying to get their deaf dog (or any dog for that matter) to pay attention without success, and instead of going to the dog, they just continue to try on and on.  Meanwhile the dog is getting into trouble, and sometimes into a dangerous situation.  If what you're doing is not working - it's always best to step in and go to the dog to manage the situation quickly. 

Sometimes we may be in a situation where the dog will be able to feel a vibration through the floor.  Be aware, however, that some dogs will not really pay attention to this unless they've been taught that the vibration has some significance.  Also, surfaces carry and distribute vibrations in various ways.  In my experience, wooden decks carry vibration very well, while harder surfaces such as concrete really aren't that good at conducting vibration.  

Some dogs may respond to the vibration of a loud clap or noise.  Again, this usually works best if the dog is taught what that vibration means ahead of time.  

Flashing a light when the environment is darkened can be a great way to get a deaf dog's attention.  Many of us who live with deaf dogs have learned that flashing the porch light when the dog is in the yard at night is a suitable way to let it know to come back into the house.  Similarly, if this can also work in a darkened room of the house.

Waving an arm in a large arc that takes up a lot of space can get a deaf dog's attention too, if you can catch their eye.

An important part about getting a deaf dog's attention is to take the time to teach the dog that these things mean you'd like it to look at you for more information.  This doesn't have to take very long, and it's not complicated.  In fact, the more of these signals that you teach, the easier it will be in various circumstances to get your dog's attention quickly.  

Let's take the example of teaching a dog to pay attention to a large wave of your arm.  Begin close to your dog and with your dog already paying a bit of attention to you.  At first you need to create an association so your dog understands that an arm waving in the air is a wonderful thing to see!  So having your dog's attention when you start is the best way to create this association.  Have plenty of tasty treats handy. 

Associate the wave with a good thing - the treat!  The sequence is to wave first - make it as big as you can - and then feed a treat.  Make the treats extra special and you will see your dog making this association very quickly!  A large wave - a great treat.  This is the sequence.  Do it many times.  Then take a break and go do something else.  Probably your dog will follow and watch you closely for a bit.  That's normal. 

Do many mini sessions during the day and in different rooms of the house, or in the front yard, or the back yard.  You can even practice on walks - take your treats with you.  Right now, you want there to be a great treat every time you wave your arm so the association your dog is creating will be very strong.

After you've practiced this for several days in different environments, you can begin to throw a random wave into your day here and there.  Make sure you have that tasty treat but hide it for a bit beforehand in a pocket or a container hidden around the house.  When your dog is nearby but is not paying a lot of attention to you, wave that big wave.  When your dog notices, it should quickly pay attention to you - at which point you can reward with the treat and lots of praise or even a game!

Paying attention to you should always be a super fun thing for your dog to do!  Be sure to make it worth your dog's while to pay attention to you when you ask!  

With more practice, you should be able to give the wave signal from farther away or at more random times during the day.  If you have created a strong association by rewarding often with things your dog loves, your dog should be learning to watch for that wave out of the corner of its eye, in the hopes of seeing that you want its attention and getting something great in return!  

You can teach other attention-getting signals with the same process.  Use the signal you want to teach followed by things your dog loves!  Create the association.  Start off close to your dog and make it easy, then gradually start incorporating it into your daily life.  

Once you know the association is strong, you can begin to randomize the rewards you give.  Sometimes play a game, or give some petting if that's something your dog likes, or go for a ride in the car - just make sure it's something your dog really likes.  Getting your dog's attention for things that aren't pleasant will create avoidance instead of alert attention. 

Now you've created easy ways to get your dog's attention so you can call it to come to you, or give it a different cue signal, or just redirect its behavior.

But ... there is one more key ingredient to getting and keeping your deaf dog's attention.  And, we'll talk about that tomorrow!  

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How to Teach Your Deaf (and Blind) Dog to be Quiet

I’m always amused when people find out my dogs are deaf. One of their first questions is, “Do they bark?” Oh yes, and boy, can they bark! Some deaf dogs have a very high-pitched bark. Some have a deeper bark.   

You may hear that deaf dogs bark more than hearing dogs.  Some people may even tell you this is because they can't hear themselves so they don't know they are barking.  

The truth is that dogs bark!  It is a trait specific to dogs.  And deaf dogs are really just dogs that can't hear. They still have all the behaviors, urges and needs that other dogs have.  This includes their desire to communicate.  Dogs communicate many things through barking - an alarm that someone or something is outside, to demand attention or other reinforcers, to invite play, out of boredom, from stress, and the list goes on.  Deaf dogs are no different.

There is another truth involved here, and that is that you CAN teach a deaf (or blind/deaf) dog to be quiet when asked.  And you don't need a vibration/shock collar to do it!  All you need is to set aside some time to actually teach your dog what you want.  Here, let me tell you how I teach quiet.

The way I start to teach a dog to be quiet is by naming “quiet” when the dog is actually being quiet and then offer calm praise. I use one finger pressed to my lips as the quiet signal. With a blind-deaf dog, use a touch signal for quiet that is a finger placed gently on top of the dog's muzzle. 

When the dog is being quiet, give the quiet signal and then quickly give the good dog signal and a treat. I do this sequence several times while the dog is quiet. You are essentially naming for the dog what “quiet” is while they are already being quiet. This allows the dog to associate being quiet with the cue.

When the dog does bark (because it will happen), I am ready as soon as the dog stops barking (even if it’s only a quick pause) to give the quiet sign and then the good dog sign. I give a treat after the good dog sign. Chewing the treat helps to distract the dog from whatever it was barking at, which allows me to get more quiet signals practiced and reinforced in quick succession before the barking starts again. It also helps to more strongly reinforce the dog for being quiet. 

Be sure not to give the quiet signal until the dog is quiet at this stage. You are teaching the dog what the quiet signal means, so you must be sure to only give it when your dog is quiet. Until your dog has really learned the quiet cue, practice naming and reinforcing it often whenever he is being quiet. 

Be very sure when teaching quiet that you are not reinforcing the dog for barking. If your dog barks at you and you throw the toy, you are teaching him that barking gets him what he wants and he will be more likely to bark. If your dog barks at you and you give him part of your snack, or pet him, or open the door to let him outside, you are teaching him to bark more. 

If you want a quiet dog household, focus on rewarding quiet dogs and not barking dogs. If you do, you will find less and less barking happening. 

To begin using the quiet signal when your dog is barking, you will need to first get his attention if he's not looking in your direction – waving your arm in the air in his line of sight may work, or a gentle tap to his body. When he looks at you, be ready to give the quiet signal quickly before he looks away. 

If you’ve done your homework in using the quiet signal often and then giving a treat, your dog should at least pause and look at you expectantly. Reward quickly! If you wait, he may start to bark again because he’s excited about whatever he’s barking at. Continue to give the quiet signal and reward with several treats one at a time while he is quiet. And don’t forget the praise too! 

What if your dog gets quiet with the initial quiet signal and eats his reward, and then turns back to barking again? Don’t let him continue to bark. Get back in there and interrupt the barking again by getting his attention back on you. 

If he does not respond to your quiet signal at all, you will need to go back and review giving the signal and rewarding when he is already quiet. Your job is to make that quiet cue super important to your dog so he will pay attention to it. 

As you continue to practice the quiet signal, you can gradually space out those treats to get longer periods of quiet between each one. Give the first treat right away when the dog gets quiet, and then pause for slightly longer periods of time before giving the next treat, etc. Do this step gradually. Only expect a few seconds of quiet between treats at first. If you try to move too quickly, your dog will start barking again in between treats. 

You can build up the time as your dog is ready. Over time, you can give fewer treats, but rewarding the quiet now and then will help keep the behavior strong. Giving a quiet cue does not mean that your dog will never bark. Dogs bark. That’s something they do. A quiet signal will give you a way to communicate to your dog when you’d like him to stop barking. 

And if you teach your dog to bark on signal, too, then when people ask you if deaf dogs bark, you can show them that yes, indeed, they do! 

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How to Teach Your Deaf (and Blind) Dog to Wake Up Gently

There is a myth that deaf dogs are dangerous because they will bite when they are startled or woken up. 

Could this ever happen? Yes, it could. But it could also happen with a dog that can hear just fine. 

Does it happen a lot? No. Most deaf dogs are no threat when startled. 

Can this scenario be prevented? Yes, definitely! You can teach your deaf dog to wake up easily and happily. By teaching this skill to your new dog, you can prevent this issue from developing. 

Start training when your dog is awake and paying attention to you. Let your dog see you reach towards it. Touch your dog and then pop a wonderful treat into its mouth immediately. Don’t wait to see what your dog will do. There should be no lag time. Just touch and pop the treat into its mouth. Make these really special treats. You want your dog to really look forward to being touched. 

If your dog is also blind, give it a moment to become aware that you are nearby before you touch at this stage of teaching.  Touch gently and quickly give a treat.  In the beginning, give your dog a moment to know you are there, sniff your hand, etc, before touching.  You can progress in the same way as working with a deaf dog.

Repeat this pattern of touch and treat many times quickly in succession. Then touch your dog and pause for just a moment before giving the treat. The sequence will become – touch, dog looks expectantly for treat, and then feed. Don’t pause too long, just long enough for your dog to show you that it knows the treat should come next. You are teaching your dog to associate your touch with a treat. 

In future sessions, touch different parts of your dog’s body. One touch = one treat. As your dog becomes more tolerant of you touching various parts of its body, sneak in a random touch now and then when your dog is not expecting it but is still awake. Be ready with that treat immediately. Be sure to continue to use great treats every time you touch your dog. The more you reward the touching, the better your dog’s response will be when it is surprised or woken up suddenly. 

There may be times when your dog gets startled by a touch when you don’t have a food treat immediately handy. Try to minimize these as much as you can in the beginning, but if it happens, be ready to reward your dog with something else it likes – a small game or lots of petting if your dog enjoys that. Being woken up or startled should always mean good stuff for your dog! 

When your dog is sleeping, though, be respectful. Don’t wake your dog up unless it’s necessary. When you do need to wake your dog up, do it gently. Walk heavier as you approach your dog so it can begin to feel the vibrations through the floor. When you get close to your dog, blow on it gently to wake it up. If your dog is lying on a blanket, you can wiggle the edge of the blanket to gently shake her awake. 

If your dog is still asleep, you can progress to brushing it gently with your hand. It is best to touch your dog on its body, not its face. 

Be prepared for a startle if your dog is sleeping soundly. Startling is a normal response. Just make sure that you are quickly offering your dog something wonderful – a treat, or petting! Usually the dog will recover immediately once it sees or smells you, and when you offer something tasty to eat, it will forget all about being startled. 

Be aware that if your dog is blind and deaf, you may need to use your hands to steady it as it wakes up. It will not be able to see you nearby, so maintaining a firm but gentle touch on its body will let it know you are there, while you offer the food right near its nose. 

You won’t need to offer the treat forever, but it’s a good idea to give a tasty treat every now and then as a reminder that unexpected touch is a good thing. The more you follow a startling touch with something wonderful (treat, playtime, petting), the happier your dog will be about it. 

It is important that you protect your dog from unexpected touches that could be unpleasant. If someone startles your dog, be ready to step in and make it a happy experience for it. Remember that startling is a normal response. You will probably not ever get rid of it completely. But you can diminish how much the startle bothers your dog by rewarding frequently. And with lots of practice, you may notice your dog waking up easier and easier each time! 

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Teaching Deaf (and Blind) Dogs to Use Their Mouths Gently

A common complaint among those who live with deaf (and blind/deaf) dogs is that they use their mouths roughly. This is very common throughout puppyhood and adolescence, but if dogs are not taught to use their mouths gently, this problem can extend into adulthood.  Deaf dogs sometimes get a bad rap for being more aggressive than other dogs.  But this is a myth.  Let me tell you more ...  

Dogs use their mouths in many ways – when they eat, chew, play, discipline, bark, and too many more ways to list. Dogs can cause injury to humans if they are not taught to use their mouths gently and to be respectful of human skin. This means it is our responsibility to teach our dogs the behaviors that we like, such as treating our skin gently. 

We cannot expect our dogs to stop using their mouths because it is a normal dog behavior. Just like when we use our hands. But just like we must learn to use our hands gently and appropriately in life, so must our puppies learn to use their mouths gently and appropriately. 

Because there is a myth that deaf dogs are more likely to bite than hearing dogs, it is of utmost importance that we, as advocates for deaf dogs, make sure our dogs know how to be gentle and respectful with their mouths. It’s important that we can show others by example that deaf dogs can be safe and wonderful companions, so that more homeless deaf dogs can get adopted. 

Sometimes a dog that is deaf may have a harder time learning to be gentle with its mouth than a dog that can hear. Let me explain why. 

These lessons begin when a dog is still a baby puppy with its mother and littermates. When one puppy bites another too hard, the one that is being bitten will yelp sharply. This often startles the first puppy into letting go. That puppy learns that in order to continue playing with the other puppies, it needs to control the strength of its mouth. Since puppies play with their mouths, they learn to grip each other with less and less pressure. 

When a puppy enters a human household, it needs to also learn to control its mouth with its new human family. Human skin is even more fragile than dog skin and is not covered with fur as protection, so the puppy needs to learn to be even more careful with us than with other dogs. 

Our natural reaction when something hurts is to blurt out, “Ouch!” This will often stop a hearing puppy. Some puppies are more persistent than others and continue to bite too hard, but many will learn to play more gently to keep the game going. 

Obviously, deaf puppies cannot hear the other puppies yelp, or hear us say, “Ouch!” They may need some extra guidance learning to be gentle. One way of letting your puppy know that its play is getting a bit rough is to stop playing every time it bites you too hard. When it bites down too hard, immediately remove yourself from its reach. Remove the body part from the puppy’s mouth gently but matter-of-factly and stand up so the puppy cannot reach you. 

Exaggerate your body movement and facial expressions to convey your disappointment. The attitude of your body and face should be saying, “Ouch! Stop that!” The puppy will recognize the sudden difference in your demeanor. You should also say the word “Ouch!” out loud. Yes, I know the puppy is deaf, but saying the words will add to the genuine picture of how your body and face look. 

It’s important to note here that you should not allow yourself to get angry or act threatening. Remember that your puppy is just acting like any normal puppy would act while playing or while excited. It is not doing anything wrong; it just needs to learn how you would like to be treated during playtime. 

This break doesn’t need to be long. Once your puppy calms down, even for a moment, give the good dog signal and slowly and calmly return to its level. Allow your body and face to soften back to normal and begin to interact again but more gently and calmly. You must be consistent and end the interaction every time that your puppy bites too hard or plays too roughly. This is how it will learn. 

With consistency, you may find that just changing your facial expression and withdrawing your hand for a moment is enough of a reminder for the puppy to be gentle. 

Sometimes puppies can’t seem to stop themselves from grabbing everything around them in their mouths. This usually means that the puppy has gotten over-stimulated and needs help to calm down. Giving the puppy some quiet time to calm down is a good idea. It might be a good time to give a special stuffed food toy to occupy puppy’s mouth and encourage calmness. 

Be sure to praise your puppy frequently when it is interacting appropriately with you. In teaching our dogs to be gentle with us, it is important for us to also be gentle with our dogs. Playing games that mimic wrestling or slapping of a puppy will encourage it to play more roughly with us. 

While it may seem cute now with a little tiny puppy, think about that bigger adult dog with much bigger teeth. Will you still want the dog playing with you that roughly? If you have children, it’s especially important for you to model calm and gentle ways for the children and puppy to play together. Show your older children how to appropriately handle the situation if puppy gets too rough. Always supervise and be ready to step in during playtime. 

Keep lots of safe toys and chews around to help redirect your puppy from mouthing things you don’t want it to. Chewing on toys can keep a puppy’s mouth busy and help it learn appropriate behaviors. When your puppy is mouthing your skin too much or too hard, offer it a toy to chew on instead. Often that will be enough to divert its attention. 

A dog that knows to be gentle with its mouth is likely to be welcomed into so many more of the family’s activities than one that doesn’t. By taking some time early in your puppy’s life to teach gentleness, you can set it up for a lifetime of success.  

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Re-Posting: Quality of Life for Blind/Deaf Dogs

This has been THE most popular and most read blog post that I've written.  The question of whether blind and deaf dogs can have a good quality of life is one that is asked a lot.  I think it is appropriate to post it here again as part of Deaf (and blind) Dog Awareness Week...

I received a lot of great ideas for new blog posts - Thank you so much for those.  I'm always looking for ideas to write about that will be useful to each of you as readers.  One idea that truly intrigued me was to discuss what quality of life a blind and deaf dog can have.  I think it caught my interest because I had never thought about my dogs not having a good quality of life.  I began to think about how we measure quality of life and why.

I have had many dogs in my life over the years, and there have been times when I have made the decision to have them euthanized when they no longer had a good quality of life.  Of course, this was always based on my opinion, the veterinarian's opinion, and the fact that I knew those dogs very well.  Pain is perhaps the biggest reason I would make this decision.  If the pain could not be controlled and if it was affecting the dog's daily activities.  If she no longer showed any interest in the activities that she used to love - then, in my opinion there is a loss of quality of life.

But now, I wonder, how do others measure quality of life.  Why would people think that blind/deaf  dogs don't have a good quality of life?  And were they seeing something that I was not?  I searched the internet, hoping to find some ideas.  I found this quality of life scale on a veterinary site.

 http://www.veterinarypracticenews.com/vet-practice-news-columns/bond-beyond/quality-of-life-scale.aspx

I'm going to use some of the ideas that are mentioned there to address my own blind/deaf dogs.  Of course, every situation is different, so I can't make any recommendations as to the quality of life for all blind/deaf dogs.

The first consideration is pain level and ease of breathing.  This is more of a health-related issue that would not be dependent upon the dog's ability to see or hear.  My dogs are healthy and pain-free at the current time.

The second and third sections pertain to eating and hydration.  My dogs are able to eat and drink normally on their own.  They are a good weight.  Again, this seems like more of a health-related issue.

The next section is about hygiene.  My dogs have no difficulty staying clean (although they do like to roll in the mud sometimes!)  They have no open and oozing sores.  Treasure does have many skin cysts, but they are not dangerous and don't cause her any discomfort.  The vet and I keep an eye on them in case they change.

The next consideration is happiness.  I think maybe this is one that most people wonder about with a blind/deaf dog.  The questions suggested on the scale are: does the dog express joy and interest? Is the dog responsive to things around her?  Is the dog depressed, lonely, anxious, bored or afraid?  Can the dog be included in family activities or is she isolated?

My dogs are all members of the family.  We spend a lot of time together as a family group.  They certainly express joy and interest in the activities going on around them.  They wag their tails.  They play.  They seek out affection.  They are responsive to things going on around them, reacting to air currents changing, movement and vibration, smells, the actions of other family members.  My dogs are not depressed or anxious.  I have no questions that my dogs are happy and content, and I do work hard to keep them that way.

Mobility is next.  My dogs have no problem with getting around.  I do manage the environment to keep them safe, but there is really not too much to do once the environment is set up safely for them. 

The last section says that there are more good days than bad.  For my dogs, each day has more good in it than bad.  Keeping my dogs enriched and happy is a huge part of my responsibility as a dog owner.  If I was not able to give my dogs what they needed, it might mean that I was not the most suitable home for them, but it would not necessarily mean that my dogs had a bad quality of life and should not live.

I can honestly say that my blind/deaf dogs have a wonderful quality of life.  Some people think that a blind/deaf dog can't possibly have a good quality of life.  They wonder what enjoyment a dog can possibly get out of life if she can't see and hear.  But dogs live in a world full of so  much more than sights and sounds.  Their lives are rich in smells and vibrations.  A dog that is born blind and deaf never learns to rely on her sight and hearing.  She doesn't know that she's any different.  She learns from the time she is born to explore and enjoy her world. 

Even my older dogs that have lost their sight and hearing from age, are still enjoying their lives.  Sure, there is an adjustment period where they may have to learn to rely on other senses and to do things a bit differently than they are used to.  That is to be expected.  But they still enjoy their walks and belly rubs and mealtimes.  They love to sniff around in the yard and find something to roll in.  They may even still enjoy that favorite bone. 

I hope the quality of life scale may be of good use to you, and thank you for the wonderful suggestion for this post.  It caused me to stop and think about what quality of life means, not just to me, but to others.  I hope that anyone who questions my dogs' quality of life watches the videos of them and sees them having fun in all activities.  

I hope we can change minds to realize that those with differences are not bad or to be thrown away.  When given the chance, they can blossom and teach us so much - and, they can have wonderful quality of life. 

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Does a Deaf (and Blind) Dog Need a Hearing Dog Buddy?

Many people think that a deaf (or blind/deaf) dog needs to have a hearing dog to follow around.  This is usually not necessary.  Although, if you do have a hearing dog, your deaf dog will watch him closely for cues to things that are important to him – mealtimes, going for a walk, etc.  A deaf dog (or even a blind/deaf dog) will notice when the other dogs around him are getting excited, heading towards the door for a walk, or the kitchen for a treat.  In fact, sometimes it is even hard to tell which dogs can't hear, as the deaf dog learns to respond just as quickly as the hearing dogs.

A deaf dog will also watch you closely to see what cues you give.  Sometimes your deaf dog will notice cues that you aren’t even aware you are giving!  They are very good observers!  If there are not other dogs in the home for a deaf dog to take its cues from, it will take its cues from you and from other members of the household.  

Deaf dogs are individuals, just like people and hearing dogs are.  Some enjoy the company of other dogs, while some may not.  And some dogs get along with certain dogs and not others.  It's not fair to try to push certain dogs to live with other dogs if they aren't comfortable with that.  And, just because a dog enjoys playing with other dogs doesn't mean it needs to live with other dogs all the time.  It might be just as happy as an only dog that gets to have regular playtime with the dog next door. 

There is nothing wrong with having hearing dogs if you adopt a deaf dog.  There is nothing wrong with having several deaf dogs together either!  Any dogs that live together will develop relationships all their own.  Dogs don't really care which dogs can hear and which ones can't.  

We as humans love the idea of a dog "knowing" another dog is different and taking on the role as helper.  We have a fairy tale image of two dogs developing this type of relationship.  And it does sometimes happen and is a magical thing to watch.  But don't pair up two dogs with the expectation that one will take on the role of helper to another. 

In reality, this very rarely happens.  The dogs will develop a relationship, but normally it is not the hearing dog helping the deaf dog at all.  Normally it is the deaf dog learning to read the hearing dog's behaviors and what they mean. 

I have also lived with deaf and blind/deaf dogs long enough that I have seen them step into a helper role with my other hearing dogs on occasion.  Their ability to see and hear (or not) in no way hindered them from helping another dog in a useful manner. 

Please don't rely on myths when choosing dogs to live together.  Instead, take into account each dog as an individual.  Make choices based on each one's personality and what personality of dog would be a good match for the household and for the other dogs.  If you choose to live with a single dog, please don't ever feel guilty or sad about that, as your dog will be thrilled to have all your time and attention, and will learn to watch you just as closely for information as it might have learned to watch the other dogs.  

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Deaf (and Blind) Dog Awareness Week

There's a special week every year set aside to bring awareness to deaf dogs.  This is Deaf Dog Awareness Week!  The gang and I want to also include dogs that are blind and deaf in our week of awareness.  

So many misconceptions exist about deafness and blindness, not only when it comes to our dogs, but in our human culture as well. Those of us with the senses of hearing and sight can't imagine what it must be like to lose them.  The truth is, we have become overly dependent upon these two senses.

If you've been reading my blog very long, you've seen my posts talking about all the other ways our dogs (and we!) can gather information from our environment.  Dogs are so in tune with things in the environment that you and I ignore on a regular basis.  Things like vibrations, temperature changes, light and shadows, air currents, scents, energy and intuition, that give them information about their world.

Many deaf and blind/deaf dogs are waiting in rescues and shelters for the right family to adopt them.  They are often overlooked in preference for a dog that can see and hear.  I can't help but think this is because of people's misconceptions and myths that get passed around.  

Do they know that deaf and blind/deaf dogs can go hiking?  Do they know that many really enjoy children?  That they can play with other dogs?  That they can play with toys and play fetch?  That they can learn cool tricks and even compete in certain dog sports?

The purpose of this special week is to highlight the amazing things deaf (and blind/deaf) dogs can do.  If we can change people's perceptions and impart new knowledge to them about what deaf and blind/deaf dogs are capable of, surely more of those waiting for homes will be adopted.  

Come along with us this week while we help to erase some of the misconceptions that exist, and while we brag a little bit about some amazing deaf and blind/deaf dogs we know! 

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