Ways to Appreciate More Treats!

Vinny says:

February 23rd - It's International Dog Biscuit Appreciation Day!  What a GREAT day!  I really appreciate dog biscuits every day, but having a special day means that my person will have a wonderful reminder to let me have even more of them!

So I started to think about more ways that I can get (and appreciate) more dog biscuits!

Do more tricks!

What about puppy dog eyes and an adorable expression?

Follow my nose!

Play with puzzle toys!

Go shopping!

Smooch my favorite biscuit baker!

What are some of your favorite ways to get more treats and biscuits?

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Long Distance Traveling with Vinny

What are some considerations when taking a long-distance and/or extended stay trip with your dog?  I'm getting ready to take just such a car trip with Vinny (blind/deaf).  He's an experienced traveler, and there are certain things I take into consideration to keep him happy and content when he's away from home for so long.

Vinny is a fabulous traveler, enjoys riding in the car, and is excited to explore new places.  But even so, being away from home can be stressful.  It's important that I have a plan for keeping Vinny as relaxed and happy as possible. 

Are We There Yet?  

We will need to spend most of two days in the car to get to our destination.  Vinny travels in a crate which is strapped down securely so it won't slide or bump around.  I choose to have him ride in a crate for safety reasons.  A crate will help to keep him safe from being tossed around in the car should I have to stop suddenly, but it will also keep him safe from the luggage and other items in the car hitting him if they shift suddenly.  

In his crate, he has a familiar bed, some favorite toys, and some bones to chew to help him pass the time.  I keep food puzzle toys handy along with some special treats, so I can offer him one periodically to exercise his mind and give him something to focus on.  Vinny can't see me or hear me, nor can he hear the radio or my singing (which might be a good thing!).  It's important to me that he have things to occupy him.  I may even give him a new toy to explore. 

It's important on a long trip to provide lots of water and potty breaks, and a chance for Vinny to stretch his legs.  I have a long tracking leash where I can get to it easily.  Rest areas often have larger grass areas where I can let him wander and sniff or even run a little bit.  He also needs to have access often to fresh water.  When finding interesting places for us to stop along the way, we explored whether they were dog friendly.  This allows us to do some sightseeing while Vinny gets to come along with us.  

Checking In

Once at the hotel, there is an entirely new environment for Vinny to get used to.  I've found it is easier for me to check in and get my things into the room before bringing Vinny in.  This also allows me to check the room for ways I can make it more accommodating for Vinny since he can't see.  Can I create a clearer path for him by moving floor lamps, wires, chairs, etc?  

I always check under the beds - I have found stray medications which have rolled under beds and been missed by vacuums.  I sure don't want my dog eating that!  I close the toilet lid if possible and if not, I make sure I don't allow him free access to the bathroom.  I know they use toxic cleaners and I don't want to risk my dog deciding that this is the day to sample toilet water!  I always keep trash cans up on counters and out of Vinny's reach while in the hotel as well.  

Since I've already brought my things to the room (and Vinny's things), I can unpack his bowls, bed, toys and bone so he will notice familiar things of his when he comes into the room.  I do also travel with a small exercise pen that I can set up to help him acclimate if necessary.  He's a fairly seasoned traveler, so I don't really need this anymore.  In the beginning, though, it helped him get used to a smaller area first before setting him loose in the room and helped him not to be so confused with a new space.  Similarly, if your dog is used to using a halo harness, be sure to bring that along.  

I came across a new situation when traveling recently.  A low counter stuck out into the middle of the room with nothing underneath it.  The counter was much lower than most.  But this counter was just the proper height for Collies to knock their faces against - and that was NOT fun!  In this case, I used things to block off the space around and below the counter - luggage, chairs, and the exercise pen.  

Jumping on the Bed

Be prepared to spend some extra time with your dog while getting to the room.  Some dogs take their time to do their business in a new place.  It's wise to make sure you give your dog plenty of time to do everything they need to do before going into the hotel.  Your dog may experience new types of doors, new and various surfaces, new smells.  Take your time and let your dog explore a bit and smell on your way to the room.  

There will be steps and elevators.  Small dogs can feel safer being carried (if they are accustomed to that) in elevators and up and down unfamiliar sets of steps.  Larger dogs will need extra guidance from you and patience about exploring steps that may be different from theirs at home.  Elevators are a great alternative, but require some practice to do safely and fluidly. 

Always be sure when getting on or off an elevator to look first - be sure no one (or other dog) is getting on or off towards you.  If there is another dog in the elevator, I usually will wait to get on the next one.  It's important to block the elevator door with your foot and leg while you help your dog get on/off.  Please don't let your dog get on or off without blocking the door.  Elevator door sensors can't sense a leash and may close on your dog or on the leash with you on one side and your dog on the other.  That is NOT safe!  Also be sure you steer your dog to the back of the elevator away from the closing door so his feet and tail don't get pinched!  

When I get to a new hotel room, I allow Vinny to smell and move around.  I keep him on the leash and stay nearby so I can steer him if he's going to bump hard into something.  He will explore but appreciates having me nearby so he can check in with me while he's moving around the room.  He will find his toys and bed, and I show him where his water is.  After he's checked the room out a few times, I will take off the leash but I am still paying attention.  

He will bump into things as he explores.  If I notice him getting confused or frustrated, I will step in to help him and redirect him in a different direction.  He usually explores a few more times around the whole place off leash and then will come to investigate what I'm doing, find his toys, etc.  

Taking the time to consider what Vinny needs on our travels allows him to have fun exploring new places.  By taking some extra time when we first get to the hotel, I know he will then settle down and be comfortable in the new environment for the rest of our stay.   

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

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It's OK to Be Different!

January is It's OK to be Different month!  What a great way to begin the new year, as we are taking a look at making life better for ourselves and our dogs!  We're all different, so that we can all bring something marvelous and unique to this world.  Too often we see bullying or discrimination due to differences - in our human world, but also in the dog world.  This month reminds us to embrace and celebrate our differences and what we can all bring to the world!  Enjoy some wonderful quotes that remind us to be proud of all our differences!  

"If you desire to make a difference in the world, you must be different from the world." 

~Elaine Dalton

Vinny - blind/deaf K9 Freestyle competitor

"I am different.  Not less."  ~Temple Grandin

Vinny - we live by this quote every day.

"In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different."  ~Coco Chanel

The irreplaceable Treasure - blind/deaf therapy dog extraordinaire

"By being yourself, you put something wonderful in the world that was not there before."  

~Edwin Elliott

Vegas - deaf/mostly blind, Expert Trick Dog

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

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Vinny's New Year Resolutions 2019

**For more information about blind and/or deaf dogs, visit my website at www.yourinnerdog.com  You will find articles, books, online classes and resources there to assist you!  To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address!**

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Adding Scents to Help a Blind Dog?

When looking for advice about living with a blind dog, many sources recommend putting artificial scents in different rooms and on different surfaces for the dog to follow and recognize.

In theory, this sounds wonderfully helpful, but I've actually found that it can be very confusing for the dogs, as well as inconvenient for the human to continually reapply the scents to keep them fresh.

It is common knowledge that a dog's nose is one of its super powers!

It's been described that while we may walk into the kitchen and smell spaghetti sauce cooking, our dog can smell each of the ingredients used to make the sauce individually!

In observing my own blind dogs, they can easily tell the difference in the natural scents around them.  

The leash I use for every day walks smells different than the longer leash I use for letting them run in the fields, and smells different from the leash used for therapy visits.  The nail clippers smell different than the brush or the undercoat rake, even though they are all stored together in the grooming box.  How do I know they smell differently?  I know from my dog's reaction to each of those items - the reaction is different to each by smell alone.

My dogs easily know the difference between the rooms of the house, and even in different areas of each room.  I don't ever add any artificial scents to help them.  Each surface and object in my home has its own scent - a door smells different than a window.  A couch smells different than a rocking chair.  My dog can tell the difference between the smells of his toys and has his favorites, even among ones that are the same texture and shape!  

Has your dog ever had one favorite tennis ball among several?  Perhaps you've experienced this very thing in your home whether your dog can see or not!  Or what about the dog that chooses its very favorite stick and can pick it out of a pile of other sticks anywhere?  It's the same idea!  Our dog's noses are amazing!  

When we add artificial scents within the home, they are normally scents that are strong enough for us to smell readily. This means they are very powerful smells to our dogs - remember that their sense of smell is so much more sensitive than ours!

If I use a scented cleaner in my house, my dogs often sneeze or even go the other way.  My blind dogs don't like to walk on floors that have been cleaned with scented cleaners - even if it's a floor they walk on regularly.   The smell is just too strong for them. 

I think this is why people think that adding scents is helpful.  They add strong smelling scents to objects and obstacles in their home and the dog avoids them, so they think the dog is learning that the lemon scent means a doorway is there, and the pine scent means a piece of furniture is there - but really all the dog wants to do is avoid the strong smell.

It's much nicer to the dog to help him learn from the natural scent of the obstacles in the home so he can learn to navigate on his own.  It's also healthier, as some of the scents used may be full of chemicals that we and our dogs are then inhaling. 

If you've had any experience with nosework or scent work with dogs, you will also know that scent travels!  Think of the spaghetti sauce - you can smell it when you walk into the house, even though the kitchen may be several rooms away!  Right?

When you add a scent to the doorway, it doesn't just stay right there on the wood of the doorway.  It moves and spreads and drifts around on the air currents in your home, moving even several rooms away.  Sometimes scent also will collect in corners or in enclosed spaces, such as under tables or chairs.  Talk about confusing to the dog! 

It's not necessary to add artificial scents to help your blind dog navigate through an environment.  I have lived with blind dogs for a long time, and I have helped many, many clients with blind dogs.  I see it time and time again - dogs are amazing!  They can figure it out without us adding scents to everything. 

Your dog already is learning (or has learned if he's lived in your home for awhile) to associate the natural smells of the various rooms, objects, and obstacles with finding his way around your home.  He recognizes the smell of your couch, your bathroom, his bed, his toys, the path to the doors.  

If your dog is newly blind or is blind living in a new environment, take the time to help lead him around and let him explore while keeping him safe.  Help him learn to navigate his way around common pathways such as to the door to go outside, to his bed, to his toy box and to your favorite cuddling spot on the couch.

He will learn quickly.  And as you watch your dog finding his way around, take a moment to be amazed by the power of his nose!  His super power!

For online articles and resources relating to blind and/or deaf dogs, go check out www.yourinnerdog.com

To subscribe to this blog and receive emails as each new post is published, please scroll to the blog header above and add your email address! 

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Canine Wellness - the Big Picture

This is National Pet Wellness Month!  It's a time to bring awareness to how we can keep our pets feeling and functioning at their best!  

In my Foundations for Canine Wellness online class, I introduce the Your Inner Dog Wellness Wheel, and we look at the building blocks within the wheel that will create a solid foundation of wellness and well-being for your dog.

The Wellness Wheel shows what I feel are the key aspects of life for our dogs.  You can see the main categories in the picture below - physical, social, emotional, and mental/behavioral wellness.  

Each category has different aspects to consider.  All require that we learn to look at life through our dog's eyes to best learn about his needs.  His needs and his perspective (how he views and experiences the world) are different than ours in some ways, yet very similar in many others. 

Each part of the Wellness Wheel affects each of the other parts.  All the parts work together and influence each other to create a harmonious big picture of life for each dog.  What happens in one area will impact the other areas, so an imbalance in one area can show up as an imbalance in another as well.  

A balanced dog has all of its needs met and can therefore experience wellness and well-being in all areas of its life.  This is the ideal that we all strive for.  It's important to refer back to the Wellness Wheel regularly, as these aspects of our dog's life are always changing.  By knowing what to consider in each of the aspects, we can easily make adjustments that will help keep our dog's Wellness Wheel in balance!

For the month of October, to celebrate National Pet Wellness Month, the Foundations for Canine Wellness online class will be offered at a substantial discount so that you can learn about building a strong foundation of wellness for your dog!  I hope to see you in the classroom! 

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A Holistic Perspective to Canine Wellness and Training

As a holistic dog trainer and animal wellness coach, my work centers on the importance of finding a balance in our relationship with the animals in our care.  There are many aspects to consider, and each one affects the others.  Here is an excerpt from my online course, Foundations for Canine Wellness in celebration of National Pet Wellness Month!  

"What is wellness? Wellness is defined as “the state of being in good health, especially as an actively pursued goal.” (from Google) In this course, wellness is closely married with well-being, which is defined as “the state of being comfortable, healthy, or happy.” (also from Google)

As a holistic dog trainer, I look at all parts of the picture and how they fit together. Holistic is defined as “the comprehension of the parts of something as intimately interconnected and explicable only by reference to the whole.” (Google again)

This means that we recognize that all the parts come together to directly affect the whole. There are many parts, or aspects, of our dog's life that come together to affect his/her entire life - health, happiness, fitness, nutrition, exercise, sleep, enrichment, training, environment, and so on. Each of these parts comes together to create the whole of the dog's life.

When we look at these aspects holistically, we can begin to see that there are many parts that make up the whole of our dog – physical, emotional, mental, social, behavioral, and instinctual.

As we go through this and upcoming wellness courses, we will consider all aspects of the dog’s life. We will look at health, environment, stress, training, behavior, and more. Our dog’s well-being and wellness depend widely on the choices we make on his/her behalf. Our dog relies on us to make these choices for it in most circumstances.

From a holistic training perspective, behavior is affected by many variables that are not often taken into consideration. Many trainers assume that behavior is a stand-alone issue and that training alone will change behavior. But when the concerning behavior has a deeper cause, this can create frustration as training is not able to completely clear up those concerns.

In fact, many trainers resort to forcing dogs to change their behavior out of frustration, but these are only temporary fixes, then requiring more force at a later date to keep the behavior under control. Forceful training also leads to other concerning behaviors developing that weren't there to begin with, and can lead to a decline in a dog’s well-being and quality of life.

The holistic view of training and behavior is that there is a cause behind that behavior. When we can deal with the true cause of the behavior, usually the behavior changes on its own and it is a permanent change. This is because whatever was causing the behavior is no longer there.

Changing even one aspect of a dog’s life can have a lasting impact on all the other aspects, including behavior. This is because all aspects work together interchangeably to create the whole picture that is your dog! This is the holistic perspective!"

For the month of October, the Foundations for Canine Wellness online class is being offered at a significant discount.  The class is On-Demand, so may be started at any time.  

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Teaching a Name Sign to a Deaf Dog

A name sign is a sign that is a shortcut instead of finger spelling out an entire name with sign language.  It's a bit like a nickname!  It is a shortened sign to make signing a name faster and easier.  Deaf dogs can learn many different signs, and all of my dogs also learn a sign for their names.

Teaching a name sign is a great way to let your dog know you want to engage with him.  If you have multiple dogs in your home, using name signs can be very handy so the dogs know which dog you are referring to.  I use name signs to ask my dogs to take turns, or to allow one dog to come through a doorway but not a different dog.  I can ask my dogs to do different things by differentiating which one I'm addressing.

How do you decide on a name sign?  Perhaps your dog has a certain character trait you want to highlight, or an endearing nickname that already has a sign that you can use.  I tend to use the first letter of the dog's name in its name sign and choose different ways to use that hand shape.  

Vegas (pictured) has a name sign that is a V (index and middle fingers spread as a V with other fingers folded into my hand) and I shake it back and forth slightly in the air.  Owen has an O hand shape (all fingers curled and touching my thumb to create a circle) and instead of shaking back and forth, his drops slightly downward in the air. 

To teach Vegas to pay attention to this new sign, I use his name sign whenever we are doing things he likes!  Name sign, then treat!  Name sign, then his meal!  Name sign while we are playing his favorite games!  Name sign when I put his leash on to go outside!  He will learn by association that the sign refers to him and that something good will happen.

I don't use a name sign if I am going to do something my dog is not fond of - bathing, going to the vet, etc.  I will just go get my dog.  I always want only positive things associated with my dog's name sign.  I always want my dogs eager to engage with me and come running when they notice their name sign! 

  

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How to Choose Signs for Deaf Dogs

Is there a secret to choosing signs for deaf dogs?  Sometimes people ask me how I choose which signs to use for my dogs, and new adopters of deaf dogs are normally very concerned with choosing the right signs.

The truth is, that any signal you use consistently will come to have significant meaning to you and your dog.  If I pat the top of my head every time I take my dog outside, my dog will very quickly begin to know that patting the top of my head signals a walk!  There is no magic formula for choosing which signs to use.  

There is not a formal sign language for use with dogs.  People living with deaf dogs use an assortment of signs for their dogs.  There is no right or wrong answer as to which ones should be used. 

It's important to have consistency with the signs you choose for a deaf dog.  Make sure that you and your family members remember which signs mean what, and that you are making the signs in the same way so your dog won't get confused.  

You may choose to use a formal type of human sign language with your dog.  You can do searches online to help you find signs for various cues and words you want to teach your dog.  Many sites have videos to show you how to do each sign, so you can watch and practice until you feel comfortable.  Here is one that lets you type in a word and do a search for the sign that means that word or phrase.  https://www.signingsavvy.com/

You may choose to use widely accepted hand signals that are used for dog obedience exercises.  You can do a search for dog obedience hand signals to find these.  Or you can even do searches for signs to use with deaf dogs and find many sites with examples.  Don't let yourself be confused, though, as signs may be different from site to site.  This is because as long as you are consistent with the signs you choose, your dog won't care which ones you use.

I have chosen a number of signs to use from various sources, and some I have made up myself.  My deaf dogs know some made up signs, some dog obedience signs, and some actual sign language cues.  You can see some examples of the signs I use on the Uniquely Paws-Able site in the Library where there are sample videos of me working with my dogs in various capacities.  You can find that page here:  https://uniquely-paws-able.teachable.com/p/library-free 

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Treasure's Legacy

It's taken me a week to even attempt to write this post.  My heart and my mind have struggled to find words that would even come close to describing the relationship I had with my dearest Treasure for the past eight years.  I'm not sure I will ever find the right words.

I've been blessed to share my life with a dog that has touched so many from all around the world.  I am sure I do not even know how far her legacy has reached.  She has followers and fans all over the world.  She has helped countless dogs to find new homes and to be able to stay in their homes.  She has changed lives that I may never even be aware of.  

And so, I want to share with each of you the magic and the legacy of Treasure.  I will share with you over time and many posts, about who she was and who she continues to be.  You will laugh with us and cry with us.  I hope you will come along and celebrate Treasure's life with us.

This all happened very suddenly.  One day Treasure had a heart attack, and although she appeared to recover, she was quickly diagnosed with heart and kidney failure.  What does one do with a diagnosis like that?  

I did what we all would do - I focused on how to make it all better for my precious girl.  We worked with the veterinary team to do all we could to reduce Treasure's symptoms.  I knew that her time (at age 12) was limited, but I didn't know whether I would have her for another hour, or another couple of years.  My initial fear caused me to try to focus on packing every minute full of things to do with her - a bucket list so to speak.

I quickly realized, though, that focusing on a bucket list was causing me to focus on Treasure's death.  The death that I knew was going to come one day.  I didn't want to focus on her death, so I decided instead to write a Celebration List.  Together we created a list of all the little things that we loved to do together every day.  And then I focused on celebrating all of those moments with Treasure every day, for however long we had left together.  

This shifted my focus from the fear of wondering when I was going to lose her to gratitude for every moment we had together.  This shift allowed me to have some wonderful last days with my friend full of love and remembering and celebrating each memory we had created together.

Treasure is the reason I started this blog.  When I adopted her, so many people misunderstood her as a blind and deaf dog.  They expected her to be miserable and helpless.  I wanted to show and inspire everyone that she wasn't like that at all.  I knew that if so many people thought this way, surely there were many more.  This limited thinking would surely prevent blind and deaf dogs from being adopted, so we set out to change hearts and minds.

The White Dog Blog has become a go-to resource for all things related to double merles and blind/deaf dogs.  This is all thanks to Treasure coming into my life.  We expanded the blog and wrote a book about teaching and living with dogs that are both blind and deaf, and it continues to be the only one of its kind.  Again, this would not have happened without Treasure's inspiration. 

Treasure paved the way for many blind/deaf dogs to be adopted, and to show just what they are capable of!  She loved to learn new things!  She loved nosework and learning tricks.  She was the first blind and deaf dog to earn trick dog titles!  

What an amazing therapy and READ program dog she was!  She was a superb cuddler and when people held her, she surrounded them with a gentle and radiant love, which they felt and commented on every time.  Her patience with children allowed her to teach them that it wasn't scary to be different ... or to be friends with someone who is different.

I cannot even begin to count the stories of lives she has touched and changed for the better.  Many of those stories are shared here in this blog.  I hope if you are a more recent follower of the blog that you will go back and visit some of the older posts to see some of these stories. 

My dear Treasure passed away a week ago, after blessing me with an amazing week full of special Celebration memories.  She is greatly missed.  As she left me, she surrounded me with that gentle and radiant love, which continues to sustain me and bring me comfort. 

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For The Curious 2 - Your Questions Answered

There were more great questions sent for my For The Curious series of posts!  Thank you to everyone who sent such great questions that people often have about blind/deaf dogs and double merles! 

Are your blind/deaf dogs always on a leash or beside you?  Are they able to roam freely at home and are they able to navigate a space they are familiar with?  What about a space they are unfamiliar with?

My b/d dogs are free to roam in the house or fenced areas.  They know the space pretty well.  Yes, they do sometimes bump into things, but they know where the furniture is, the doorways, the steps, the toybox and water bowl.  When they are outside, they are on leash.  They are well trained and will come to find me and check in with me, but they are very valuable to me and I don't take chances with their safety.  It would only take one missed cue in a dangerous situation for something bad to happen - since I need to be relatively close to them to give a cue (they can't see or hear me from afar), things could go south pretty quickly.  I use long tracking leashes to give them freedom to run and sniff and be dogs.  

When we travel, the dogs seem to enjoy sniffing out a new area.  They can quickly map out a hotel room or a friend's house, learning where the water bowl is, the furniture, the doors.  I encourage them to be independent in as many ways as it is safe to do so, so my dogs learn confidence and how to map out new areas.  

I know a double merle that stands between people's legs that he likes - is this common in double merles?

In my experience this isn't something particular to double merles.  I know many dogs that stand between someone's legs.  In some instances, the dog feels this is a safe place to be while it watches or experiences the world go by.  It can feel comforting to the dog to have light pressure on both sides from the person's legs, the same way a thundershirt or TTouch wrap would provide a comforting pressure - like a hug!  And, in Vinny's case, he adores being between my legs because he was taught this as a trick and it's one of his favorites!  

How do you stop them from barking and from taking things they're not supposed to have?

All dogs bark, not just double merles, not just deaf dogs, and not just blind and deaf dogs, so to stop them from barking, we need to teach them what we want instead.  Just telling a dog to be quiet doesn't work, because they don't have any idea what we want them to do, or what quiet means - until we teach them.  I start by adding a cue to quiet when the dog is already being quiet and reinforcing all quiet behaviors.  As the dog realizes it is the quiet I like, he will start to spend more time being quiet.  Barking usually happens for a reason, so when I take care of the reason the dog is barking, AND teach him that I like it when he's quiet, I don't have a problem with excess barking. 

With dogs that take things that they aren't supposed to have, I can use the same principle.  If I manage the environment to set the dog up for success - by putting away things I don't want him to have, and leaving out things I do want him to have - I will have more opportunities to reinforce him for playing with things he can have.  Paying attention to him when he has something I want him to have will go a long way toward encouraging that behavior.  But every time I leave something out that I don't want him to have and he gets hold of it, he is reinforcing himself by having fun with that thing.  So the behavior won't go away until I take some responsibility and put those things out of my dog's reach.

How does she (blind/deaf) eat?

My dogs eat from puzzle toys mostly and from a dog bowl - probably just like your dogs do.  Because I have multiple dogs, they each have their own space to eat around the room, and they know where that space is.  They will go to their space when they smell me getting their food ready.  They find their food by smell.  

Can you housetrain a blind and deaf dog?

Most definitely!  Doing our business does not depend on us being able to see or hear - have you ever found your way to the bathroom in the middle of the night without turning the light on?  And it doesn't depend on our dog being able to see or hear either.  

Teaching a dog to do its business outside is a matter of keeping the dog on a consistent schedule, taking it outside often and supervising when it's inside.  Prevent any accidents inside and stay with him outside until he goes - then reinforce.  You will need to stay close by because your reinforcement is going to be petting while he is going.  In the beginning you can't just put him out in your fenced backyard.  

You must be with him to reinforce him for going outside - this is the behavior you want.  Behavior that is reinforced will continue!  And, if you're not out there with him, you may think he is done and let him inside only for him to go on the floor.  Stay out there with him, keep him on a schedule, reinforce behavior you like, and prevent behavior you don't like (accidents in the house).  

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A Birthday Full of Fun!

Vinny is 2 years old!

For his birthday, he asked for donations to be made to the Humane Society - and just look at all the great stuff that was donated for the animals!  

He had his favorite Puppy Pinata (a box stuffed full of treats, bones, toys and paper)!  He loves to tear the box apart and find all the goodies!  

He had a doggy cake and special turkey ice cream!  

I think he was a very happy boy!!  Happy Birthday Vinny! 

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Hearing - or Not Hearing

I am sick - which is a bummer.  But I've also had a chance to experience first-hand something that I counsel so many people about - dogs losing their hearing, or dogs with partial hearing.

My left ear has been clogged now from this cold for several days.  I am not hearing normally from that side.  While this is annoying for me, I had a revelation yesterday.  And then I started to pay more attention to what I was hearing and not hearing.

Sounds that normally I would not pay attention to, or would discount easily and go on with my day, were startling me.  I couldn't recognize what the sound was or where it was coming from.  It's unsettling to hear something and not know what it is.  

Each time I went to investigate, I found out the sound was one that I hear every day and easily would have known what it was from a distance.  Because I would have recognized the sound, it would have been very easy to go on with my day.  

Dogs that are losing their hearing must go through this same thing.  How unsettling for them.  Of course, on an intellectual level I already knew this was true - but experiencing it for myself allowed me to put an actual emotional experience with it.  

I felt myself startle, hold my breath and try to listen harder to figure out the noise I was hearing.  I felt the compulsion to know and went searching to find out what it was.  I felt the unsettled feeling of hearing unfamiliar sounds.  My dogs do the same, and they may jump up barking and carrying on because they've heard something unusual that they can't identify - something that may be a threat and they should warn us about.

Dogs born with partial hearing won't always be able to recognize or pinpoint where a sound is coming from.  Dogs with ear infections or other conditions that affect their ears may become more fearful or reactive as they deal with things not sounding the same and safe to them.  And dogs losing their hearing too.  We have no way to know exactly what they are hearing at any given point in that process.  

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Teach Your Dog to Cooperate with Grooming and Vet Visits

Brushing, combing, cutting toenails, being held for vet examinations and treatment - these things are a part of life for our dogs.  These aren't events that will happen once and never again.  Instead, these are lifelong skills that our dogs will need to learn to deal with as ongoing events in their lives.  Yet these are also things that some dogs get very stressed about.  

The good news is that we can teach our dogs to think more positively about all of these activities, and we can even teach them to cooperate with us so they are less of a struggle.  The better we can prepare our dogs to feel good about grooming, handling and vet visits, the less stress they will feel, and the healthier they will be.  Teaching them to be cooperative with us, the groomer and the veterinarian will only make our jobs easier as well!  

And teaching every dog to enjoy being touched and handled all over is an important safety skill for daily living.  A dog that enjoys and allows touch will be safer in any environment, no matter what role it is expected to fulfill - competitor, companion, therapy dog, etc. 

I've written about some grooming topics previously in this blog.  Here are some you may have missed or that you may want to revisit:

Overcoming Grooming Fears 

Grooming Tips for Blind Deaf Dogs 

Calm Behavior During Grooming 

Also, due to popular demand, our highly recommended online course Grooming, Husbandry and Handling Games is going to be offered again beginning April 7, 2018!  This class is offered for 6 consecutive weeks, with new written and video lessons released each week.  You can view the lessons and practice in your own time from home, and there is a student FB page as well as the option to get instructor feedback through the online classroom.  

Some of the topics we cover are: playing touch games, waking up gently, using a marker, chin targeting and its uses, new surfaces such as tables and scales, introducing grooming tools and creating positive associations, teaching various positions for grooming, nail trimming, techniques for giving medications including ear and eye drops, how to teach common veterinary restraint positions, introducing vet tools and creating positive associations, muzzle training, and tooth brushing.

If you would like to learn how to start a new puppy out right on the path to easy grooming, handling and vet care, this is a great class to learn how to create positive associations from the start!

If you would like to create a less-stressful and more enjoyable grooming and/or veterinary clinic experience for your dog, this class will help you learn the right skills and techniques!  This class is stuffed full of great tips and information to help you and your dog achieve just that! 

Enrollment is open NOW!  Click the link to learn more and sign up!  

Grooming, Husbandry and Handling Games

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Getting Started with Touch Cues

There are two types of touch cues - these are cues that you give to your dog by touching various parts of his body in different ways, to mean different things.  If your dog can't see or hear you cues, touch cues give you the perfect way to begin communicating with him.  Having a way to communicate is crucial to living in harmony with your dog.  You can tell him what to expect to happen, and how you want him to respond.  And your dog will feel safe, calmer and more confident when these things are clear to him too, and he doesn't need to guess.

The two types of touch cues are information and request.  Information cues do just that - they give information.  These would be signs that tell your dog what is happening or going to happen.  Examples of these would be: mealtime, outside, grooming time, car ride, etc.  Request cues are used when you want to request a behavior from your dog - sit, lie down, come, stay, leave it, etc. When most people think about cues, they are thinking of request cues.  I've added information cues here too, because I believe they are very important.  

Dogs are always gathering as much information from their environment as they can.  Dogs that can hear may notice the jingle of your keys, hear the mail person's footsteps, or hear a knock on the door.  These sounds become cues to your dog - information cues. They let your dog know what is going on or is about to happen.  Dogs that can see are also very good at noticing information cues.  They may watch you putting your shoes on and know what the agenda is for the day.  Are you putting on running shoes, hiking boots, work shoes or fancy heels?  Dogs can learn the difference!  

Blind and deaf dogs will also learn some information cues from the environment, especially if you have other dogs that react to them.  But they miss out on key visual and auditory information cues that we can provide to them in the form of touch.  It's nice for them to know what's going to happen next.  

You may find when you first begin to use touch cues with your dog, that he startles or even moves away from you.  If no one has tried to communicate with him in this way before, this is all new and he won't understand at first.  But he will catch on quickly.  If you are also playing touch = food games with your dog, the startle should diminish quickly.  

As for going the other way, this is something I've noticed in some dogs.  When they are touched, they may react as if they have bumped into something, and they may quickly stop and go the other direction.  This also diminishes as the dog begins to realize that certain touches mean certain things.  But as he is learning, you can help steady him with a calm and steady touch with one hand while you give the new touch cue with the other hand.  By touching and steadying first, the initial surprise of the touch has time to dissipate and the dog is now better able to focus on the new touch cue. 

Don't try to name everything at once.  If this is a new way of communicating for you and your dog, you both need time to become familiar with the process.  You will need time to practice and remember the signs so they become automatic for you to use and give in a consistent manner.  Your dog will need time to learn what the new touches mean and to build his vocabulary.  Decide on one or two touch cues to start out with.  If you are starting with information cues, you can begin with going outside and mealtime, as these are two things that all dogs experience every day.  This will allow you both several opportunities every day to practice and for most dogs, these will be two experiences that they really like and look forward to.  They should pick up on the cues quickly.

When teaching information cues, you can use the chosen cue consistently immediately prior to and during the event that you're naming.  For example, if you are teaching the cue for outside, give it as you are at the door about to open it.  Then use it as you are opening the door and again as you are going out.  Eventually you will only need to use it once, and if you use it across the house, your dog will probably beat you to the door!  But for now, as you are introducing it, try to use it immediately prior to and during the event.  If you are introducing a cue for mealtime, give the cue as you already have the dog's food ready, and then again as you put the food bowl down.

When teaching request cues, it is best if you can to try to initiate the behavior first a few times without the cue, so you can be sure your dog is comfortable doing the behavior.  Once your dog is comfortable doing the behavior (luring into a sit position, for example), add the cue you will use just prior to helping the behavior to happen.  So the order would be, touch cue for sit, then lure dog into a sit, then reward and praise.  In this way, the dog will begin to anticipate and try to do the behavior on his own when he notices the cue.  This will allow you to stop using the lure as the dog learns to respond first to the cue.  

When dogs learn cues, they don't automatically differentiate between them.  It takes practice for the dog to learn to distinguish one cue from another, especially if they are not context specific.  If sometimes you ask the dog to sit, then down, or to shake hands, you may notice him sometimes "guessing" and giving the wrong behavior.  This is a normal part of learning.  Take time to practice, help the dog get it right, and reinforce a lot when he does!  

Try to keep the touch cues as clear as possible.  If cue delivery gets sloppy, the dog may interpret the cue as something else entirely.  This may be noticeable if the dog knows a lot of cues if those cues are given close together on the dog's body.  A sloppy cue can easily shift to another area of the body, which may be where a different cue is given.  Consistency is important if you want a consistent cue response. 

There are no set-in-stone touch cues that you should use.  Use whatever makes sense to you, because you will be the one who needs to remember them!  Be sure that other people in the home or that interact with your dog on a regular basis know the cues so everyone can be consistent.  If they are simple touches, such as a tap on the hips for sit, these can be listed and hung on the fridge.  If the cues are more complex, it may be helpful to video them.  This can be very helpful if you hire a dog walker or pet sitter.  It gives a clear record of how to communicate with your dog.  

I hope this has given you some tips on how to get started teaching touch cues.  Watch for follow-up posts showing some examples of touch cues that I use for my own blind deaf dogs.  

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